This has been mentioned before, but with all the new folks coming in it makes sense to repeat it.
Mike Bender and Bill Howell have created and posted a great set of videos, showing a complete engine rebuild from start to finish.
There is also a set of three videos on coil restoration, by Mike Vaughn. Here is the link:
Check them out!
I just watched the 27 minute video on repairing and straightening the pan. It was very nicely done.
I suspect there are as many different techniques for straightening the pan as there are people who straighten them on a KR Wilson jig. My technique varies from the one shown in the video in terms of the order of operations.
I start by getting the pan down on the jig's pins, using C-clamps and a steel bar. The idea is to push the metal into place. As soon as the pan is on the jig, I go to the pan arms and roughly get them into position, especially so they are not touching the sides of the jig. Pan arms are frequently bent inward, and pressure between the pan arms and the side of the jig can throw off alignment of the pan's bolt holes and the alignment pins in the jig's deck.
Another thing I do differently is waiting until the pan has been completely straightened before soldering up the front dam on the pan. Getting a pan on the jig's pins, then beating on the side rails as shown in the video (and which I do as well) often times cracks the solder between the dam and the pan, creating a potential oil leak. By waiting until all the beating, shoving, and pushing on the pan is done before soldering the front dam seems to help prevent leaks later in this area.
Trent: I do one thing different from you. I remove all the solder from the front dam and take the pan to get it hot tank vatted. This removes all the gunk that is in the pan. Best $10.00 bucks I spend. I also solder it after straighten with but with scrap Babbitt. Dan
I like your idea on how to solder the pan's front dam. It makes a lot sense to me, and I will try it the next time I have a pan to straighten.