I'm working on fitting the passenger side sill in a 1924 touring. I have the Mel Miller plans, I cut the notches for the pillars, now on the drawing it says the top side is the same size as the under side for the #2 pillar.
The #2 pillar when fitted to the body is curved in at the bottom. How is the pillar supposed to mate up with the sill if the notch in the sill is cut straight meaning top side and under side are the same size I'm assuming I have to form the cut out with a rasp until the pillar fits flush, right??
Can't be a misprint on plans that have been round since 1970.
(Message edited by adminchris on July 31, 2016)
good luck you will need it,it didnt take me long to find a better way.after 300 bodys you cant do it the old way,and make any money.charley
On my Mel Miller plans the passenger door post was off 1/4 ".
thanks for nothing Charley
I'm not trying to make money, just trying to fix my car
doug! i could send you pics of how i do it but you would have to start over with new wood & my drawing. charley
Doug - the panel pillar is flat on the bottom 3.25" which allows it to fit in the notch that you have. The pillar's inside face is angled above that point - see photo of the drivers side
Thomas I think we are talking about the wrong angle
I'm talking about the vertical curve not the horizontal
If I remember correctly. the note regarding the notch (on the inside) is at right angles to the top and bottom of the rail. Up and down.
you must remember everything is on an angle.just like a boat.ha.ha,Charley
The vertical curve is only on the outside of the pillar. The inside face is basically straight - see plate #3 of Mel's plans. Do you just have the top of the pillar pushed out too far? An easy way to check that is that it should be the same distance as it is between the rivet points on the cowl.
Paul is correct about the angles.
Thomas you are right thank you, the pillars I got from fordwood are angled where they should be flat that's the problem
That's where the "fitting" up comes in Doug. The pic you show at the beginning of this thread showing the lower section of the front pillar is how the pillar on my 21 Touring looked.
Once I got the correct angle in my head (so to speak) it started working out.
I think Charley is right about the angle. As far as Mel Millers's plans are concerned, I had a set of plans I bought from him in the early seventies for my 1919 Roadster. They were pretty much Ok but a few places I wondered about. The wood pieces I used from Ford wood for the 1919 Roadster
at that time had to be altered a bit but after that it went together OK.
The bodies were made by different manufacturers. So there is a lot of little differences in the individual fit of the pieces. I have seen the door posts be off about 1/4 inch from Mels plans on some bodies and fit on others. At one time, I had three complete original wood sets from three different 1915 touring cars. Most of the wood would not fit from one framework to the other. They were close but not a direct bolt in type of part. So there is considerable trial and error in our re-wooding of the cars today. Espically if some of the body sheet metal panels are repro or from different cars. The biggest pain to me in the re-wooding of the bodies was getting the doors to fit and work good. . Just lots of fit, take apart, and re-fit till it was OK... So pay close attention to that area as you proceed with the re-wood job. Its a lot of fun if you take your time. So far I have done over 30 bodies ... Sounds like you figured out the problem, feel free to contact me if you have any more issues ... Have fun and be safe .... Donnie Brown
I read some where that in the day if you went to the dealer to order body parts, wood or metal you had to know the body manufacturer to be assured of the correct part. I understand there were three or four different makers. When you buy metal parts from Rootleib they are made to the middle of the road and most require some drilling and cutting to fit