Built a complete Spiltdorf coilbox with coils for a good guy in PA's Ford Model N:
Work of art !!
How are we supposed to follow THAT???
RV, set the bar too high!
After seeing that beautiful coil box I guess I'll have to wait until September or October before I can post on what I got done. That is of course if RV doesn't post another project for those months.
Very beautiful coil box and coils
Wish I was a good guy in PA...
What stain is that, I love the finish?
Wow; thanks for the kind words! The box wood is mahogany and the stain is one I made myself, a mixture of about 50% Minwax red mahogany and 25% each Minwax dark walnut and "natural".
The flash on my camera seems to distort the true color of stained wood. The actual color is darker and less red. It was matched to an original box and coils that was most graciously loaned to me by Paul Griesse so that we could duplicate it.
The finish is 6 brushed coats of Minwax Gloss UV Resistant Marine Spar varnish. I don't use grain fillers because in my view they tend to make the stain look muddy, so the grain is 'filled' by the multiple coats, each one leveled by hand sanding. It's time consuming but I like the end result better.
That's pretty, RV.
R V A, That is absolutely beautiful!
Nothing I shall do this month will be so nice.
Unless you count going to see our new grand-daughter again.
But I did work on the coil box for my '15 runabout today. Got the first coat of black paint on it.
My project is to remove the rear spring of my 1910 Tourer and repair it somehow so the rear tyres don't bottom out on the butterfly arm / rest guard brackets. We are unable to take passengers at the moment because of the weak spring.
My July projects have turned into my August projects, and my August projects will probably turn into,.....well,.....they'll probably,......well,....you get the idea,...........harold
My project was to open the box with the 4 brand new 21" split rims. Hoping to get them primed and painted in the next week so I can get the tires mounted and turn my chassis into a "roller". I was contemplating leaving them the way they came but think they need some sort of paint work to make them last...
Aren't those already plated ?
Yes, but the way they are produced it looks like they are welded into a full wheel, then cut in a location other than where it was welded. You can still see the grinding marks from where they smoothed out the welds. It isn't horrible, but it does look different than the rest of the wheel. Perhaps I should just leave them. You may not notice it when the wheels are mounted on the car...
The big project around here this year has been to put a concrete floor in a 26x48 barn. This meant removing virtually everything from the inside and grading the gravel floor before pouring a new one. I am now ready to finally put the cars back in,after they get a much needed bath.The light at the end of this tunnel is there if I keep at it.
Trying to keep a Pierce Arrow running!
Finishing up my 1910 REO truck replica. Sawing, filing and polishing brass....
Great looking truck Gary !! Please post pics when you have it finished.
Clean and organize from July projects. I'm getting tired of tripping over things and walking circles for miles trying to find the tool I laid down in a place where I could find it later.
It is nice to see Mike's Pierce Arrow and Gary's REO. Great cars! As much as I love Model T's I believe if I do the same thing day after day I might become stagnant and boring. In that spirit I try to work on my '35 V8 Ford a few hours every 2 or 3 years. Today I'm dismantling a front axle to put under it.
R V, That's a beautiful Coil Box....I'm sure it will work at least as good as it looks, maybe even better.
That good guy in PA is really fortunate to get that for his N.
I made a tool.
Itís a magnet pole indicator.
I got the idea from the YouTube video in the link below.
It indicates the North and South poles of any magnet.
It consists of two LEDs, one resistor, a switch, a battery and a Hall Effect Sensor.
The Hall Effect Sensor was salvaged from an old 12 Volt fan that I ripped out of an old computer power supply.
The Hall Effect Sensor is the black spec at the tip of the probe.
It took about an hour to make it.
Here is the video link :
For me, this is mind candy.
Unwrapped the shop of its tarps and began work putting the second floor on. Hope to
be standing walls this week. It will be a race to have a very complicated roof on before
the snows come. Will have to get my T jollies fetching lumber this year.
Organize the shop for a half-way decent garage and get the new 22 touring up and running.
Slowly bringing our popcorn truck to life, this is a fun project, Z head, 280 Stipe cam, Scat Crankshaft, Pertronics ignition, dual exhaust and a U&J Carb and manifold.Here is a picture of the exhaust. Rick
Going to fix a bad head bolt hole in the block of my 1915. Someone tried a heli coil and buggered it up. I've successfully used heli coils before but I am doing an insert this time.
Luck to me!
Do you need all of those go fast parts to make the popcorn OR are they to assist in moving quickly from one popcorn selling venue to another?
Nice looking exhaust. Bill
Bill, no, we put the go fast stuff on just for fun and some power, it is very hilly here and this truck will be heavy the subframe is 2x6 ash 2 layers plus the body, we also have a bubble machine that will be going plus some other fun stuff for kids to enjoy.
My August project is to get my Ruckstell shift linkage finished and working. So far I have my bracket built and the lever installed. Next is the rod and the clevis ends.
John Aldrich, it may help to know that the thread inserts come in more than one wall thickness. The size of the hole you need to drill may determine this for you. Otherwise, the best choice may be determined by the drills/taps you have in your kit.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Hopefully set up the transmission, mount the flywheel and button up my engine. At least that's what I hope to do...what I'm likely to do is start on the drawings for the transmission and driveshaft.
Unloading my '65 Mustang so I can have both T's in launch position at all times.......
checked bearing today getting ready for the drive to theOhio jam
Burger, love the aerial shot of your TT! Bed is coming together. Got fuel tank mounted. Transfer case caused the need to relocate. The gift that keeps on giving!
For your Ruckstell shift rod, the generally accepted rod is electrical conduit. On my 1919 I used a piece of 1/2" black pipe. There is no flex in that shifter and I don't have to use the shift rod support.
: ^ )
Since I finally got out of the hospital, I will finish changing the oil and drain the radiator and replace with 2 gal. Anti freeze and top off with water. Then hope get it started.
Richard, since your profile says you live in Florida, you might try just one gallon of antifreeze and top off with water.
. Installed signals
That is exactly what I had in mind. I want something stout. I will hunt down some pipe.
Just finished this all original box and coils for a fellow in WI:
Ordered that 'cheaper' $20 version of the Egypt Garage turn signals. This one is on eBay and ships from England. Got it in about 10 days or so.
Very similar unit, wireless. The costly$ one has nice brackets to mount on the steering column, this one is for bicycles and has handle bar mounts.
But looky looky, handle bar mount fits great on the steering wheel spider. Puts the control unit right in front. Like it!
Mounted the rear unit on metal bracket fastened to the side of the license plate. Can see it clearly and bright under the pickup bed of Nellie.
Now when driving I can flash behind me!
Finally getting the 22 back on her feet. Engine has a new valve job, new cam, tightened up the bearings and is back in........going to finish it up by the weekend. It's hard not to make things shiny before installing them.......
R.V., I'm going to have to start saving up to buy a brass T, just so I can get and mount one of your refurbished coil boxes - fantastic!
I made up a cross member for the warford. Tried to match how the engine is mounted. I bolted the cross member from both the top and the sides.
Chris - Is that a piece of square tube? Hard to tell from the photo but it's obviously nice work,....thanks for posting. I bought a '26 Touring that has a Ruckstell and an iron Warford. The now deceased owner/builder that I bought it from had told me that he thought the Warford needed some sort of support (to which I agree) but didn't know how it should be done (and neither do I) but your installation sure looks good. Thanks for posting,......harold
Harold, yes that is square tubing. 1.5" x 1.5" x 1/8". Welded in sleeves for the bolts that go through the tubing into the warford. Boxed the ends of the tubing. Then drilled and tapped for 3/8 bolts on the the top and ends of the tubing.
You can see in the picture the bolts through the frame into the mount.
I also made the warford level to the frame. In my case, I welded a 1/4" plate on top of each end to space the mount down.
It might be overkill, but I did not want to worry about the warford going anywhere.
Chtis, are you going to rely on just the welds in the frame rails? Usually, the joints are plated for extra strength/insurance.
Allan from down under.
I sand blasted and painted a set of wheels for my 27 roadster.
I'm low on gas and did not want to start fish plating the frame and run out in the middle.
Once I use whats left on little projects, I'll get a new bottle and finish the frame.
Having tipped a T cylinder over and crunching my phone, I am having to learn all over again how to post photos on the new one. But before I can do that, I have to go through re-sizing school!
I now have just two big pieces of my roadster. The motor and transmission are built and installed in the rolling chassis. The second big piece is the finished body. I have to get my body lift team organised to come over and do their thing. I have had help from the same team to lift 6 different bodies onto the chassis over the years. It's become something of a tradition. The trouble is, some of the team are now in their 70's and any sustained lift gets a bit much, so I have to be super organised.
Photos to come when I know how.
Allan from down under.
Thanks for the kind words, Mark.
Wheels look great, Derek. Is that your own spray booth?
Dad's spray booth. He owns a body shop so I use his equipment on weekends.
My friend and I made a false cam for my KRW line boring jig. That is for sale.
Fellows, just my 2 cents worth on lengthening the frame rails based on 45 years of being around trucks, heavy equipment and making a living as a welder and fabricator. DO NOT box the rails. This in effect makes that short section a rectangular tube that will NOT twist. The T frame is designed to do just exactly that. When that happens enough times, the frame rails will crack at the ends of the welds. It may take awhile, but eventually it will happen. I have seen it many, many times on truck frames. A "fishplate" on the outside is OK, but not really needed if all welds are made with 100% penetration. A small piece of steel about four times the width of the weld and about the same thickness of the frame welded inside of the lower lip of the frame is all that is needed. It will help strengthen the weld, but still let the rail flex. If welded correctly, a frame won't just "break" all at once, even if overloaded. They crack first and then break. Start your weld bead from the edge of the frame and work towards the inside. Cracks almost always start from the weld "crater" where it is the thinnest. Hope this helps. Dave
Started working on rewinding a mag coil. The old one failed because the screw that holds the contact button to the block grounded out on the rivet. Didn't find out until after I removed the windings so I am now rewinding the coils. I filed a dummy pole out of a hammer handle to wind the copper. I have just enough electrical cloth tape to do the job. The coil frame was coated with Glyptol and was difficult to remove. Took two coats of paint remover and two passes with the sand blaster. I'll be done in a week or so. Can't yet load pictures on a new computer.
Stripped down to paint and install new engine.
Waiting on parts to finish rebuilding a couple of iron sediment bulbs:
I finished my bodywork and personally painted my 1913 Runabout body black. It came out pretty nice I might say.
Looks great, Ed, well done!
I also finished painting my 13 horn as well, its a straight and nice as you can get.
Both your projects came out very nice indeed!
Put new guts back In Fuel bulb and started on my starter repair. Should be back on the road tonight. Tim
Did some work on a 1926 Buick I took in on trade to get it ready for sale. We took it to the local country club for lunch. This car has original paint and upholstery. When you drive one of these you will see why they cost three times as much new as a model T.
It's all related. More work on the shop. Built the two bay window cantilevers, set some of
the windows in the entry, and fell back to add the proper supports for the sagging outdoor
Obviously Eric Barrett lives in China.
Working on the front axle, bearings and tie rods. Also working on wiring, rear axle bearings. Trying to keep everything looking as original as possible. Today I will work on the carburetor and coils.
Love that combination jack/dolly, Mark!
Weaver Auto Twin jack.
To put this mess together.
My project is to keep the speedster clean and shiny and drive it as much as possible. So drive I did on 8/12.
This shot was taken at the Twin Gates trailhead parking lot along Mt Hamilton Road, east of San Jose CA. My friend and I took a drive up to the 4,216' mountain top to visit Lick Observatory. The Observatory complex can be seen on the mountain top.
The ride up and over Mt Hamilton was always a favorite route on the Santa Clara endurance runs. It is about 30 miles to the top from my house with a climb from basically sea level to 4,216. The grade, however, is fairly gently since they had to haul the material to build the telescope and buildings with horses and mules. There are some great hair pin turns along the route.
Since we took the easy way up, we took the steep road down. For those familiar with the South Bay, that would be Quimby Road. It is supposed to have an average grade of 9.6%. It is way steep than that in some of the hair pin turns. I will have to get some video posted of that.
It'll be several more Augusts to come, before I'm finished, but I drug this chassis out of my back yard. I've got a lot of parts around and I'm going to build a speedster. Money is tight but I can do a lot of stuff at minimal cost. Have to start somewhere.
Drove Tin Tillie our 1919 touring with theRose City Model T club to Shady Dell live steam train park ran and maintained by the Pacific NW Livesteamers club. Our our family has been going to the train park 30 years riding the rails.
That's my kind of day! We have the Northeastern Live Steamers just on the edge of Medina, OH. A few years back, there was a large mini tour of the T Club. They stopped by our club grounds with a 130 plus cars! Of all the cars, there was ONE Model A and ONE mid 20's Chrysler! The rest were T's! That put a grin on my face even AJAX couldn't remove!!!
R. V. Your coil odes are a work of art. What would it cost to restore a Kingston for my 1909?
Thanks for the kind words. I would be happy to restore your Kingstons. The cost depends on what they need done to work properly and the level of cosmetic restoration you want. Send me a PM and we can talk about it:
Meantime, here's a set of T-4232 (1911) Kingstons I just finished building:
Weaver Twin hu? been using stuff like that for years, makes it easy to move around the shop. I have a matching creeper also. Both still work very well. Anybody have photos of an unrestored 18 roadster in detail?
Extended my bed for sleeping.
Ok Dean, what if it rains ?? Your head or feet get wet ???
Some version of this for Rain.
Sold the Buick. Now getting the shop ready for a meeting of the Nor Cal FAST chapter this weekend. We are going to demo pouring and boring main and rod bearings.
I KNEW I'd seen Dean's model T someplace before! Coolest T on the planet. I've seen that T with my own eyes! Makes me happy. :-)
My project? Getting ALL of the "3 T's and parts, MN" home. Almost done. Nothing is farther than 45 minutes away (the last trailer loads). Soon to change.
Grand days, great people, model T's, Shell's (Deer Brand) beer and GOOD Sloppy Joes in Hanska, MN. :-) Darned old rusty Fords! You meet the nicest people when you drive a Ford! Who got that pun?
I had bonuses ALL along "the way too busy" in my busy summer. That trip to Paynesville...... Oof! :-) Met a bunch of really cool people! Especially a couple fellas from Iowa and Nebraska!
Too many cool things going on here in this thread!
Mark, I've a ?20? Roadster in my presence with a quite original body. Would that do? I'd like to see pics of your '18...
I'm trying another carburetor on my primitive pickup. It's a 1930's SU on a Vaporizer intake manifold. Learned you have to grind some off the Vaporizer manifold to fit in this upside down application.
May need some type of fuel pump when the gas gets below 3/4 tank, but I hate to put any pump on a T..
Runs much stronger than with the NH, better low end than with a Model A Tillotson I've tried before and about the same top end ( I think, too fast for most roads around here, more testing needed )
Roger, I too am/will be adapting SU's to my T. Mine are off of a Austin Healey 948. Even got the manifold with it.
Let us know how it works out.
Drive my car as much as possible.
I finished my August project!
Got the Ruckstell shifter finished, mounted, the rod made, installed and tested!
Its nice and tight and shifts really well. That 4.30:1 low gear does really well too....laying black strips on the pavement with some good sounds!
Looks great, Clayton.
This weekend I re-laced a Hays demountable wire wheel. 48 spokes of fun.
Thank to Don and Tom for your guidance, was not nearly the challenge I thought it would be.
Now that the right-front wheel is straight and true, the others are much more noticeably out.
Erik doesn't live in China, but there are signs on the road to his place that say, "SEE the Mystery Spot, just ahead!!"
I drove my TT for the first time on the roads, been in my backyard atleast 7 years as I was working on it. Still not legal, but working on the paper work now. Every thing seemed to work as it should. Drove 4 miles to a scale to have it weighed for the dmv - 2,300 lbs - it was a big day for me! :-)
Placed Arrow turn signals on the fenders of TT pickup and TT express. I like the looks of them.
Helped my brother change 26-27 tranny mid week.
Placed Doodlebug and trailer in friends yard at 4 way to display football wins and losses. Sign with the name of team we will play on side of trailer.
All numbers and letters have DOT red tape. On front of windshield a big football cutout. Side of bug a player kicking and on back of trailer a referee. The cutouts are made out of half inch plywood and then painted. People love it. The worst thing is the bug sits outside for almost 3 months. I know what I will be doing every Friday night after the game. Change the team to be played and add a w to the rear wheel. Last year we went 12-0 before losing at state. I hope I don't have to post a loss on the front wheel. The cutouts will change as season moves along. The fans want something new after a couple weeks.
Got side tracked. Hand painted the lettering and striping on a 1916 Case 50 hp steam traction engine.
Also repainted an original Case dealer display eagle.
Now getting back to prepping my new wheels for my '13 town car, so that project can move forward.
Finally started working on Carl, my 1911 Touring.
Wow..... some wonderful pictures here! I don't have an app on my phone any more to resize pics for the forum.... but I FINALLY got a new exhaust manifold and bits to replace it, and get the drop pipe properly fixed to it. Also put on a exhaust pipe heat shield.
Next projects are replacing the band's and getting the ol' girl 'go'n & stop'n' properly, again! I'll be dismantling a Rubes (sp?) Horn to repair a puncture, then add the new flex line, Reed and bulb.
Stoked, in Detroit! :-)
Nice early 50 horse Les! (Long nose?) I have the occasion to run an early ('13) 80 horse Case once in awhile and the patriarch owner says "Duane, you're good engineer."
Makes me feel about ten feet tall. :-)
My Tin Cup (the '18 roadster that just came home) is sucking up ALL of my time as I want to get it running and be able to run it out of the shed (and back) to work on MANY little things that it wants finished.
Today: Modifying the wiring on a 30 year old plus wood coil box kit to suit the cars with the switch on the box instead of up on the dash. Unsolder some wires and re-solder them to suit.
Took mine for a drive!
Les, I having a bad case of traction engine envy They look nice and that dealer eagle is not helping