That #4 rod was a bugger and I'm hoping the #4 piston can clear the firewall without pulling the engine.
My rods appear to be mismatched, so they are unlikely to be balanced.
Sounds like a good opportunity to replace the rods and pistons with a balanced, lighter set IF #4 piston clears the firewall. Google didn't reveal the answer from MTFCA archives, so I hope someone here has done this without removing the engine.
I doubt that the bores would ever be good enough to just change pistons on a worn engine, removal and a re-bore would be the best plan.
If you have a 26-27 engine and body then no , it won't clear. However, you can unbolt the engine and slide it forward just enough to do what you want with out completely pulling the engine out of the car. You will have to remove the radiator to do this. BUT, I will agree with Frank that you should pull the engine and give it a thorough going through if you have mismatched and worn rods. There's probably more surprises yet to uncover. I'll bet you need new valves and need to cut or at least re-lap the seats. You would need to slide the engine forward or remove to get at #4 exhaust valve anyway.
I have a 1924 Touring. Sorry I forgot ti mention that.
24 should clear, you will at least need to use a glaze breaker hone before installing the pistons and new rings.
I've had all the pistons out of my 26 tourer several times and never had to move the engine.
Is the crank round? You will have to fit the rods to the crank. Time to pull the engine? Dan
I will measure the crank surfaces and check for roundness before ordering rods, but babbits looked good.
If you run that T up to 16mph by your GPS in low gear, you will need a re-built soon.
The T's max torque is around 750-900rpm.
Low or 'slow' pedal is for just getting going. Or just pulling at a very slow speed up and down a steep incline.
Don't speed in low.
Trouble is Chris, most T cranks are cracked, I send several in at a time to be tested and ground, lucky if 20% past the test.
24 complete engine/trans should be easy to find and cheap enough, buy one and rebuild it to drop in, that way you can still drive you T while learning more.
My suggestion would be either leave it as is. just tighten the bearings and drive it, or if you want to replace the pistons and rods, that you pull the engine and also replace the valves, camshaft, timing gears and camshaft bearings. Test the crankshaft for cracks and straightness before grinding it. If it is out of round you will need to grind it. Then check all the bushings in the transmission and the drums for cracks. Replace any which need to be replaced. Replace the magneto coil ring and re-charge the magnets. Anyway, thoroughly go through the engine and transmission and replace anything which is broken or worn excessively. Rebore the cylinders to fit oversize pistons. You should also check and straighten the crankcase when you have things apart.
If it runs and not too loud, and seems to have average power for a T, just leave it alone until you need to pull for some reason. Meantime, you could even look for another engine and transmission, and rebuild them, taking your time to do it right. Then you will have a good spare to drop right in whenever you wish to do so.
I wil be glad to shift at 12 mph! I'm still trying to learn what is normal. High gear is powerful from 18 mph past 40+
The engine serial number is on my title, so maybe I should find a spare to drop in while rebuilding this one when the time comes.