Could relate to other threads here.
That car has quite the history.
Burned in a fire and then purchased and rebuilt/restored by Tom Reese. I saw the car quite a few times when Tom owned it in Minnesota.
Sold to Gil Fitzhugh. Was in a major accident eight or nine years ago - hit by an SUV. Had to be restored again.
I hate when that happens !
Looks like it's quite happy being discussed right where it is.
The machinist says to " hold it in place with industrial strength Loctite. This stuff is used in aircraft construction".
When I read this it is clear that the machinist has never worked on an aircraft, because if he did, he would know that no one in their right mind would make this recommendation. Loctite is not used to secure items on landing gear or steering or anything else that is subject to extreme vibration and stress.
I agree with the recommendation to not use a Grade 8 bolt. If I were going to fix this I would probably make a new spindle bolt from 4140 billet stock, thread it, and pin it in place. No way I would trust my life to Loctite of any grade.
I would drill and tap all the way back to the kingpin (or at least most of the way). Make up a piece from 4130 or similar material and Loctite it in place. As it is on the right side, then normally the wheel is rotating to the right and will be trying to turn this new "stub axle " into the remaining spindle. If this was on the left side, then a LH thread would be in order.
Under NO circumstances would I do ANY welding to it. I would probably do away with a threaded bearing cone and use something similar to a Model A or other "modern " car, but that would depend on available sizes and fits
Option "B" might be a pair of new front spindles that includes front brakes!! I'd consider 2000# trailer brake backing plates (7" diameter drum brakes). Not very obtrusive but fairly effective on a small car. I made new spindles for these for my '27 T