I enjoyed the transformation/build of this T, shame the owner has to let it go now.
Really cute. I see it has those wonderful "white tires" that are turning yellow like the new one's I have on Pete. Sigh.
That left front is really bad.
Some really odd stuff in the hood / firewall / fender mounting department.
yes, the Chameleon tires are indeed color changing. It would be more acceptable if they all changed color the same.
The screw holes in the firewall were mentioned in the sale text, (not trying to hide anything.
The hood former that was originally on the car was some sort of abomination the simply didn't work. the new one required much re-positioning to match up with the radiator (a 1915 model) The 2x2 spacer at the base of the hood was necessary to keep the hood relatively level in relation to the radiator. If you look REAL CLOSE at the text of the sale you will note that at no time in any area was there any mention of the car being built to appeal to a purist as yourself!
Not as a purist - but from a purely aesthetic standpoint - the radiator is mounted way too high for some reason. A piece of veneer would eliminate all the extra holes so it could be mounted without the extra 25 practice holes. It looks like maybe there are 3/4" blocks of wood under the radiator on both sides? That's the source of the problem.
A brief survey of any other brass Model T before starting the project might have helped a lot here. Like they say, measure twice, cut once.........
The Radiator was for a 1915, bought it used.
The original radiator was mounted on top of the hood shelves. When installing the new Radiator (1915) I first cut the hood shelves so that the radiator would sit on the frame. The radiator outlet on the new 1915 radiator would hit the outlet from the engine, not allowing the radiator to rest on the frame (still about 5/8"too short). In other words the hood shelves were needed in order to provide enough clearance for the radiator to fit without contacting the outlet on the engine. Apparently the previous owner had the exact same issue, which is why he also had the hood shelves under the radiator. I suppose there is the possibility that the 1915 radiator is configured different enough to not work as intended in this application. maybe the outlet on the engine was different from stock, don't know, don't care. I had a problem and I dealt with it. The engine runs cool, does not leak water. and for all intents and purposes is what most people would assume to be an antique vehicle. BTW, I changed engines in this car, and still had to have the hood shelves under the radiator.
Trying to get an engine water outlet for a steel shell 1917+ radiator to fit up to a brass radiator???
Rod, I would guess eventually the tires will all catch up to each other! Where did you get yours? I know they all come from the same factory in Vietnam, just curious as to your vendor. I got mine from Langs but they were drop shipped straight from Lucas, so I lodged a complaint to them with little results when they first arrived already a "light cream" color and nothing near white. Now that they're yellow-to-brown after only 3 months I'm ready to "take on the big boys" in Vietnam about 'em. This is just totally ridiculous and unacceptable given the amount we spend on them. I'd love to roust up a huge gathering of us guys in the same boat and get on them about doing something about this. There's virtually no reason for this crap to be happening.
Okay, done venting...almost starting another thread!
Layden has identified the problem.
Phil - Layden,
OK, I think I see what you are saying.
It is the outlet from the later engine that is causing the issue?
When I bought the radiator, I inquired as to its use in a 1911 to 1913 Model T (the range we thought the car to be). What I completely forgot about was that at the time the engine was a 23 which was then changed out to a 24. It never occurred to me that there would be a water outlet difference between the different model year engines. It makes sense now. I guess I needed a 23-24 radiator instead of the 1915.
Is it possible to change the water outlet from 24 to pre 17 on that engine? I'm not about to change the radiator as it's way too expensive.
Just my opinion, I would check with the vendors or find and compare an earlier outlet. If you were to change the outlet to enable lowering the radiator, then the hood would need to be lower, then the hood former as well. Then what about the screw holes in the firewall? Originality is not exactly an option here so I would be inclined to leave it alone. Besides, you mentioned a 23' or 24' radiator, those of course wouldn't be the brass that I feel adds huge appeal to your car! I base my comments on the fact I have a 23' engine in my 14' Touring, not my choice but that's how I got it. My point is, the radiator is original to the car, in the 'stock' position and the top connections line up perfect. I can only assume the outlet on the head was retained from the earlier style. So... I guess it comes down to how bad does it bother you or the next owner! Still looks good!
Well gee! I just went back and looked at the top photo, I didn't notice the firewall already looks like swiss cheese. I guess I don't know what to say now! Sorry bout' that!
Thanks for the response. I'll look into what the venders say and go from there.
I'm guessing that I'm not the only one who has a pre 17 car that has a later engine in it. If there are others out there that had the same issue I'd like to hear from them and their solution. The reason for the swiss cheese firewall is two fold. 1st the hood former that came with the car was a welded up affair to hold a home made hood, neither of which fit very well (also caused by the radiator/outlet dillema.). When I got the new hood, it became apparent the trying to fit it to the former necessitated moving that former 1st set of new holes). Subsequently I purchased a new former (another set of holes) tried lowering the radiator (more holes) finally setteled on what I thought looked best and left it there.
I probably shouldn't have used the firewall in that condition, but I did. My intention, if I cannot use a different outlet, is to use brass sheeting to cover the holes or if the new owner prefers, I'll replace the firewall, It's not a big deal. I'm just happy to have found out what the cause was, Thanks Phil & Layden.
the seller dropped his buy it now price from $50000 to 45000 to 40000 to 35000 to 30000 WOW!!he must want to sell it fast
I dropped it From 40 to 35 to 30
The reserve has stayed the same. If you have ever sold a car on EBay you would understand the strategy. This is my 13th ebay sale and I have sold all 13. I have only sold two of the 13 on the 1st go, it usually takes 2 or 3 relisting's.
still a 10k drop on the Buy It Now in 6 days it tells you something about the seller. so what the reserve? it shouldn't be a secret what you want out of the truck
Of course the reserve is a secret, What would be the point of a known reserve, All you would accomplish is reducing your pool of bidders.
I will give you an example. I once sold a Model A coupe on ebay for 15,000.00 + The car was only worth 10 maybe 11,000 on a good day. I started out with a buy it now price of 24,000. over a 7 day auction. I had a reserve of 9.500.00 I lowered the buy it now price by 3000.00 on the 5th day then another 6000.00 on day 6 at which point the reserve was met which removes the buy it now amount totally. and with over 6 bidders it climbed past 15000.00
I'm not changing my way of selling.
BTW, I can tell you that the PW in question has over 16,000 invested not counting any labor.
so what you are saying is that you want every penny you put in this PW returned back including you hourly labor and with profit.
I don't see a lot of bidding activity on this reproduction PW.
You Sir, have a vivid imagination. Unless I release the reserve figure, you have no idea what I am expecting. Perhaps you need to place some bids and you might discover what that elusive reserve is .
Have a nice dy
I have repositioned the hood slightly and installed Brass sheeting over the "swiss cheese" modifications to the firewall.
One of the hood fitment issues was the use of window seal on the hood former that caused the hood to sit up about 3/8" higher than normal.
Does anyone know of a cure for a rattling windshield, or is it just something normal.
Now that's a clever solution! Add more bling to cover your tracks! Nice one Rod.
You did a nice job on this one Rod. Royce is an a$$ as is RJ. You covered up some flaws that others don't agree with your method so they continue to bash. Sincerely glad I no longer own a T for critique by the experts. I do get to learn a little more every day, not just about T's but the posters here
nice job Rod A+++++
Rod, windshields and everything else on a T rattles. As long as it runs right well and is reliable and safe there's nothing to worry about.
Charles White of the So Cal HCC has a nice blue and light gray 1912 C cab in original condition. I remember it from the 50's and it looks the same today. Back in the 50's there was another one called "The Miracle Pie Company" "It it's a good pie, it's a miracle" and those words were painted on each side. So there are four real ones.
One of our 1919 REAL PIE WAGONS😜