I am working on a 24. The ignition key was missing and we found a key with the same number as the number on the lock. It doesn't turn either direction. Upon wiggling the key we got it to turn to the Battery side but it won't turn to Magneto. The lights will turn on when the light switch is turned.
That is the first problem. The second is that when the key is turned to Battery the coils won't buzz even when the crank is turned, but if one connects a wire between the yellow wire on the terminal box and the blue coil box connection, the coils will buzz.
Does anyone have any suggestions on how to get the key to turn both directions. I haven't yet checked the wiring in back of the switch to see if it is correctly connected, which I plan to do today. Meantime we are trying to locate a good switch with key to replace this one if we can't get it to work.
Try squirting in some silicone lubricant. Don't use graphite. Sometimes the back plate of the switch is warped so the contacts don't contact. In that case you may not need to replace it, but just flatten it on a piece of coarse sandpaper.
I tried the silicone lubricant. It worked. However I found out why the key doesn't turn. If I pull it out about 1/32 inch it turns both ways. Either wear or the key was not ground right. I think we can put a little solder on the key right where it contacts the switch and build it up slightly, then it will work fine. I would leave it as is, but for a quick turn from batt to mag, it might stick.
Next thing is to find out why no electrical connection. I haven't pulled the switch panel out of the dash yet. Looks like all the wiring harnesses have been replaced, so maybe it was not connected correctly. No continuity on either batt or mag at this time. Maybe this afternoon after church if it is not too hot. It is already getting hot and only 7:54 AM.
Crazy glue is the best stuff for those switch backs, especially the ones with pins. What I do is I measure the thickness of an area that is not warped. I set a pair of inside calipers to that dimension. I squeeze the Crazy glue into the bad area, and put the switch back into my SMOOTH JAW vise, and crank down on it until the distance between the jaws is the same as the calipers. You will have to do this three separate times. A surface plate or drill press table is my preferred method of sanding the face of the switch back.
I have encountered the same issue with a repo key in original switch, works if you pull it out a little.
Crazy glue on a Model T? Not on my Model T! That would be nuts!
Norman - Maybe leave the key alone and consider it sort of an "anti-theft" device?
On my T I try to save as many workable parts as I can, just yesterday spent hours trying to get the original switch to work was about to give up when I thought about the battery to coil jumper could be the problem, it was, after cleaning as well as possible and repeening the brass rivet I added a little solder, it works but I nearly threw it aside. The original key is well worn, I like it! As an aside on this, two of the three pins that hold the switch together are broken off but two very small holes in the case and equally small screws fixed that.
Dennis Prank, would glue made from horse hoofs be better?lol.
I've done a lot of switches, and my method is the best! Crazy glue is the consistency of water, and really bleeds into the switch back, and the pins won't come out.
I had to file about a 1/16" off the nose of the repro 55 key to work in my 27 switch. In my 24 it worked fine before and after filing.
See of you can borrow an original key with the same number for comparison.
The new keys would not fit in my original switch so I bought an original one off ebay.