Removed the bands yesterday and the opening between the ears is about 8". When I squeeze the bands to where the ears will be after install. they are still round. Do I have to close up that gap before install or will it matter. If I do have to close, how??
If you have a spare small brake drum from a rear wheel, clamp it in a vice. Put the band around it.hold the band ears together tight with one hand and tap all around the band with a light ball pen hammer. A loose trans drum will obviously work too, but seems like wheel drums are usually found laying loose more often. There is a difference in size between the wheel drum and trans drum, but this had worked for me.
I forgot to add, IMHO, about four inches is what I like the gap at. Opinions will vary.
I`ve never much worried about "round" bands--once installed, they easily take the correct shape around the drums...I`d say you`re good to go with those bands, Jonathon----Paul
Should the lining be soaked in oil before I put them on the bands or can I rivet them then soak.
Personally, I would rivet them before soaking (unless you like working with a dripping, slippery mess).
Video on transmission bands:
For the love of god, do not soak them first. A slippery mess is an understatement. Besides, soaking them after they are excited on makes them swell up around the rivets.
And, Paul, you may well be right that the bands are okay as are. But what always concerns me, is that when they are spread apart like that, is it can make it tougher to get the washer on and the nut started. Round bands mean good even engagement. And in my experience, they do not round themselves out with use. This is why the factory took so long to make quick change bands standard equipment. They felt a better job of installing refined bands can be done by removing the hogshead, as do I.
Damn sPELLCheck. RIVETED on, not excited on.
I`m not a "contrairian" but besides not worrying much about "roundness" I also NEVER oil soak the bands before installation---they get PLENTY of oil once you run the engine. I`ve never had to redo new bands, once in service. I`d say round them and soak them only if it makes you feel better.I only remove the hogs head to install wooden bands. Been using Kevlar on most cars....Good luck---paul
Silly question(I think)Do I size the band to 7.5" with or without the new lining??
Re-shape the empty metal band prior to install of lining.
Use an old drum, works well. Get out any twist from the band, (check on flat surface); then shape over the drum with mallet to get the roundness. The ones in the photo below are before shaping, you can see how stretched out they are, the band on the right is almost egg-shaped.
You want to get the outer ends of the ears about 4" or so apart when done shaping before you rivet on the new dry linings.
The last photo in the post above was the bands hanging from the garage rafter, that's why the odd photo
Store extra bands ready for new linings up in the rafters.....the one in the foreground needs it's shaping though.
Types of demountable ears on the Ford bands too.
I do soak my linings before riveting in automatic transmission fluid. That's what the instructions for my Mark Automotive linings said to do back when I first had my T. Once I tried without and it the rivet wouldn't go in easily.
I can't be doing it wrong because I get 6-8 year band life from cotton linings, even the modern Scandinavians that seem to have a bad reputation.
Hi, The double hinged bands are the best ones to use. They come out and go back in very easy. They do not get bent. Thanks, Bob.