Generator cut -out

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Generator cut -out
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Magnus Wiberg on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 06:35 am:

I rebuilt my generator cut-out with a diode as sold by one of the vendors who carries them.
Now, when the motor is running, the amp-meter never shows any chargeing at all. Is the chargeing so continous and small, that it doesn´t show at all with the diode installed. Or did I do something wrong. Before installing the diode the amp-meter showed about 9 amps when driving


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry Davis Houston TX on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 08:37 am:

In as much as a diode passes current in only one direction is it properly orientated? Don't run the generator with a open circuit.
to do so will cook the gen. Jerry


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 08:43 am:

Considering the issues that can develop with a cut out, why not just bite the bullet and install a Fun Project voltage regulator? These issues will be resolved, and the regulator is designed to protect the generator if there is a wiring failure.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Housego (United Kingdom) on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 09:52 am:

Magnus, with the diode conversion you should see about the same current on your amp meter as you did using the conventional cut out you had before, in your case you state about 9 amps. If the diode is fitted the wrong way round it would give 0 reading on the amp meter also possibly a small spark when connecting the wire to the cut out. Or you may not have wired it correctly to the points it needs to be wired to? I would double check everything. As Jerry states do not run the generator without a load connected (battery)! Once you have sorted you may consider reducing the charge current by moving the 3rd brush a tad, my personal preference is between 6~7 amps.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 10:14 am:

Maybe you have the battery connected backwards? In a Model T the - terminal on the battery connects to the frame as the ground or earth connection.

The + terminal is connected to the starter pedal and to the generator cutout.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bruce Compton on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 10:48 am:

Mangus: If your ampmeter is showing nothing now, either the ampmeter itself has failed, the diode is defective , its installed backwards, or as Royce says, the battery was hooked up backwards after the "new" cutout was installed, as everything was ok before the modification. I totally agree with John about installing the Fun Projects regulator. No more guessing about the battery condition,running lights to decrease overall charging, wondering if the electrolyte is low, what if my old cutout fails and I burn up the generator????. As well, unless you tell someone, the Regan regulator looks identical to the original cutout. Cheers ; Bruce


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 01:14 pm:

Bruce - Please don't take this wrong, I'm definitely not a member of the "spelling police", because Lord knows,....I make my share of spelling, grammar and punctuation mistakes and then some. HOWEVER, as long as you brought up "Fun Projects, Inc., that would be John Regan, and John and I both seem to have a little "side issue" going in trying to preserve (along with old Fords) some of the "old car terminology", and one of those terms is the term,....."ammeter". I think that "ammeter" is still the accepted term for what so many people nowadays call an "amp gauge", or "amp gage", or amp meter. And as I always like to say, an ammeter is no more an amp meter, than a speedometer is a speed meter or speed gauge. They're a speedometer and an ammeter, at least to "old farts" like me! FWIW,......harold

P.S. Actually, I think this started innocently enough with the modern introduction of the now common automotive "volt meter". I suppose it's just logical that if a gauge to measure "volts" is a volt meter, then it should probably seem that a gauge to measure amperage could be called an amp meter. Who knows,.....maybe they should properly be called an ammeter and a voltammeter (volt-ahm-eter) huh? Ain't the English language great? Ha,ha,....harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 01:16 pm:

Sorry Magnus,.....didn't mean to clutter up your thread here. In fact, when I first read your post, my first thought was that if I had done the installation, the problem would have been that I put the diode in backwards! (???)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 02:35 pm:

If you bought the diode and follow the instructions the diode only goes in one way. If the system is positive ground like Model A up to Ford going to 12 volts then the diode sold for Model T is wrong you need the one for Model A's. If you supplied your own diode, start fresh (new one) and reverse the leads.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, August 14, 2016 - 02:38 pm:

Oh, if you bought the diode from T/A parts supplier, check the parts number on the package. You may have gotten the wrong one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bryan Grube on Monday, August 15, 2016 - 01:31 pm:

I have the same issue. I installed a fun projects regulator I bought through one of the suppliers. I took the positive cable off the battery and put the new regulator on and re-connected the battery. When running the original cut out, the ammeter showed about 5 amps charge. The only reason I changed the cut out was because sometimes the contact would stick when I shut it off and the battery would discharge. Now with the regulator in stalled the ammeter shows no charge when the car is running.

I never changed the orientation of the battery or the wiring on the cut out.

The car is stored with a battery tender. Is it possible that because the generator is always fully charged the contact never needs to close?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Dufault on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 - 07:47 pm:

Yes.

Next time you are out for a drive, turn on the lights and watch the ammeter ....see if the generator then shows a charge


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Cliff Colee on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 - 09:35 pm:

When installing the Fun Projects voltage regulator, did you follow the instructions regarding adjusting the third brush in the generator? As I understand it, that is a critical part of installation.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell, Huntsville, AL on Tuesday, August 16, 2016 - 10:13 pm:

Cliff is correct that the instructions must be followed. If you are using a 26/27 ammeter, don't believe it. They aren't accurate enough. Use a good ammeter (25 or older type or test equipment) in line when making the third brush adjustment.

Bryan, once the battery is charged after starting the in car ammeter would read zero as no charge is needed to the battery.


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