I just got my Ruckstell housing back from the sandblaster and noticed this crack running through one of the pinion bolt holes. Can this be welded? Note the crack is the dark line on each side of the bolt hole. The lighter line below the bolt hole is just a scratch..
My suggestion would be to stop drill the crack then bevel it out and braze it.
That Ruckstell under my speedster has had the same crack since I put it in the car almost 20 years ago. After several rebuilds (and much abuse) over the years, the crack has not grown.
If the crack really bugs you I would recommend a couple of Lock-n-stitch pins to prevent the crack from possibly spreading. If you weld it, you will have to remachine all the registers and cut the odd ball thread. At that point you may want to consider filler rod options... As nickel rod would be a miserable option.
Ted is right. Braze it. Vee the crack, Drill the end of the crack. Scott
+3....stop drill and braze it. Gary
I have great respect for Kevin's experience and knowledge. I'll trust his advice
Yes you can Brian.
Mine was cracked WAY worse. I believe it started much like yours, but eventually lost that entire section on both sides.
To save mine, I used the "patch panel" method of thinking and took the entire spool section from another K.O.'d Ruckstell housing and used it to repair mine. I measured it all out, trimmed out the piece, fitted it...then bolted it to a spool and a RH housing to keep everything square and true.....then welded the hell out of it
Its been in the car for well over two years now and is strong as an ox..
I've MIG welded cracks at the stud holes before. I Ved them just a bit and spot welded them. Worked fine. RE yours, I would weld the crack between the stud hole and the spool opening, and leave the other alone. The weld would be from the spool side and not penetrate into the threads. Someone really cranked down on that stud. Either that or a result of misalignment via bent stud or something.
I might be wrong about leaving the other side alone. I see Clayton spot welded the gap in series. Thats what I would do. Drill the end of the crack, V the crack a small amount and spot weld in series, allowing each weld to cool. I'd work from the drilled hole toward the threaded hole but wouldn't weld into the threads. You might need to run a 13/32" tap thru the hole if there is a tiny bit of distortion, but that's about it.