But, even if I had ordered the right 1's I could not fix my switch.
The switch in my TT is the kind that is held together with metal bend over tabs.
The parts I ordered, the pins.
Well 1 of the metal tabs is broke off my switch plate. The component with the 4 tabs is attached to the face plate with several bend over tabs as well.
Is the piece with the tabs on it sold separate anywhere? Or do I need to look for a used 1?
My Key parts and all work fine, I just have a broken tab and heavily worn switch contacts and contact board.
It has been to long since I ordered the parts to exchange them.
I found nothing seems to swap from 1 switch type to the other as I found a pin type face plate I could fix and use. But I have no key cylinder that will work in it apparently.
What are the options? Find the tabed part and use my key cylinder and face plate? Just have to reorder the right parts.
Or buy a pined face plate with a key cylinder and headlight switch lever still in it?
You could contact Ben Martin. He does a great job repairing switch assemblies. He doesn't do e-mail, but you can call him at 770-938-3376.
Mack, years ago,before new switch parts were available and you had to scrounge, I ground the pins off a good pin type back and put it in a tab type using little screws. Seems like I had to do a little fitting, too.
And, also in those days if you had a good tumbler that was not all swelled up, you really had, something. A lot of people just mounted a three way switch somewhere. And with the exception of some 1919switches(Clum??)I think the parts can interchange.
Your best bet may be to buy a new backing plate of the tab type. BUT if the only problem with your switch is lack of contact it may be because the original backing plate is warped. This is a common problem that is often easily fixed by rubbing it flat on a piece of sandpaper.
If three tabs are good, you can probably get by without the fourth. But because Ford bought switches from different makers, tab positions vary. If you end up having to buy the new backing plate its notches may not exactly match your tabs. In that case you have to adapt the notches with a file.
You won't find a new switch case. It comes only as part of the whole $73 switch assembly.
You might try soldering a new tab on it place of the broken one?
I just rebuilt my pin type switch and it was a job,
The diameter of the plate was greater than the diameter of the hole that it goes in.
The plate was to thick and wouldn't allow the pins to latch. after a lot of sanding and filing it went together.
That is why I don't care for the tab type switches. I would look for another switch with a pin back, and you won't have to worry any more.
Kinda late now, but I've read you can heat the tabs and let them cool naturally to anneal them before bending them. Never tried it, as both mine have the coil box mounted switch.
The repro Key and Cylinder Assembly will only work with a recent repro switch too.
The cylinder is just a little bit too big, perhaps a method for removing the chrome plating would make it just fit the old switches.
James you just answered my question I was about to ask. I found a plate with the pin type mount here but the pot metal is bad in the cylinder.Dang it.
Steve my backing plate is extremely warped as in swollen and layers separating.
29 bucks and shipping for a new cylinder that may not work concerns me. I just about coulda bought the 75 dollar assembly at the rate I am headed. Although I prefer to use original stuff when I can.
Mack I have some spare switches, give me a call if you need one.
Switches are on ebay all the time. I've never had a problem finding useable switches, with good cylinders.
I honestly don't know if the kits have improved but it's kind of a bear to re-build one with kit parts. Did re-builds twice. Once with kit parts of which I used only a few bits and the second was a "Jelf". Sand paper and back together. It's great if you can get away with it.
Well, Don brought me a decent switch at a fair price Saturday and I went to work on it today.
I am glad he brought me a good 1 as the new parts will not fit it correctly at all. I cleaned the original parts and reassembled and it works well. I did the Steve trick on it to clean it up.
I let the truck sit over the winter and finally got it in the shop on the 22th because of this issue. I had to put a couple gallons of gas in it, and took it for a spin. Well it ran ok for a mile, then went to sputtering and cut slap off.
You know that drain on the carb comes in handy. it lets non combustible water out of the carb so you can get back home!
A good cleaning of the fuel system will be the next job!
condensation I guess.