I notice a rattle( one of many) but this one came from engine and not all the rusty body panels . Determined that the crank pulley is loose. Haven't got into it yet but I am removing radiator this weekend to do some repair , so this is the time to fix it. Not sure what I'm looking for since this is my 1st T.
Do the pins wear or the crank? The pulley seems tilted and the fan belt is riding hard to the front on the fan pulley
I'm hoping its a simple fix ???
This is a 22 motor in 26 RPU
I have it torn apart waiting to pick up my new fuel tank from Jim Sims
The engine runs really good , the block is pretty rusty where its not covered with oil , but the head is painted like someone had it off in the past 40 years or so
Maybe valve job?
Typically the holes get wallered out on the stamped steel pulley. You can just drill a new set of holes slightly smaller than the pin.
The fan belt will move away from center if the adjustment is too tight.
The crank pulley must not fit very tight on crank for it to be tilted
The pin keeps it straight?
Dallas - If you Google (MTFCA Crankshaft Pulley) you will bring up a couple of fairly recent forum discussions and photos that may be of help to you,.....FWIW,......harold
I'll do that
I just went out and removed radiator so I can see things better
Unless you need it to look stock, I'd suggest this;
Jerry (& Dallas):
Your suggestion Jerry is a good one, and the reason I suggested Googling (MTFCA Crankshaft Pulley) is because that Google "search" will result in forum discussion of the installation of the aluminum flanged pulley. Note that there are two different sizes (large dia. & smaller dia.).....FWIW,.......harold
Dallas, When you have that pulley off it's the perfect time to install a modern seal to the crankshaft if you see any oil leaking there. It's an easy and cheap way to fix that leak permanently.
Royce's suggestion is a good one But the pulley sounds like it's already too worn out to properly fit the shaft squarely causing the belt issues.
Jerry's fix is the best by far. If you don't like the look of the pulley looking to modern. You can turn the ridge's off and stain it black. It's not perfect but sure looks better than the bright aluminum pulley down there. My2¢ FWIW.
What's wrong with bright aluminum down there ?
The period aftermarket ridged crank pulley came in Nickel plate!
Now there is aluminum at the upper fan pulley you know
So makes good sense to have alum. below, have used these split pulleys on many T's. Have placed them with the radiator on too. Fit great, clamp tight.
On some installs, didn't use the roll pin included, as a slightly worn hand crank ratchet didn't want to grab it. So fitted the stock solid pin with cotter, and hand crank worked then.
I appreciate the comment made by Dan about the difficulty with the hand crank grabbing the pin. I was not able to make that work in a consistent manner. I frequently slipped the crank under quarter turn pressure with a new ratchet and resulted in a hand slamming against the headlight. I did it three times in a row, (slow learner) and had a hand that looked looked like a catchers mitt. Even a well known supplier to us agreed that it probably wouldn't work properly because the pin placement is too close to the back of the pulley and there is not enough room for the ratchet pawls to grab the pin. It is not so important when you have a battery to start but early cars (1912-15-16) that must be cranked it becomes an important issue.