How far down should low speed pedal go after new lining. Now it almost goes to the floor.
What type of lining did you put in?
All types may need a couple of adjustments as it sets right after you start using it.
Adjust so the pedal stops 1"-1.5" above the floorboards. Always press it firmly down when in low, so the drum only slips a bare minimum just when the car starts rolling to avoid stalling the engine.
The band material is irrelevant.
The low speed pedal should go almost to the floor as long as the transmission does not slip when engaged.
All of the bands should have the maximum gap when not engaged so that the drums do not overheat due to excess friction.
Sure, Rod, I was just curious about Jonathan's choice
And I agree, almost to the floor - but it should still be able to lock the drum completely. One sign it's needing adjustment is that the pedal tends to stick down when driving and letting it up to shift or stop - can be scary, so be prepared to pull it up with your foot.
If the pedal is bent, it may have the ramp that tightens the band in the wrong position compared to when the pedal meets the floorboards, and then it's easy to adjust too tight.. It's good to have other T's to compare with
Adjust one half turn and test if it's enough - often it is.
(Message edited by Roger K on August 24, 2016)
Like lots of folks, I have Kevlar linings in my car. Yes, they do seem to compress quite a bit initially until broken in. I had to adjust mine 4 times until they were fully broken in. Now that's done, I haven't had to touch them for ages.
I know we don't want the band to slip on the drum but how can you be sure it is locked on the drum and not slipping a bit with the pedal all the way down. I don't rely on the space above the floor board because the pedal may be bent or the cam may be worn. With the floorboards off I look to see if there is any travel left on the cam when the pedal is depressed as far as possible but that always seems to leave open the possibility that the band is not released enough to prevent drag. Wouldn't it be best to make the adjustment with the inspection cover off so you can see where the pedal stops when tight on the drum and how far it releases when the pedal is released?
It's a matter of feel and also noticing that when you try to accelerate, you don't hear the engine rev without also feeling the car accelerate. For me, the "feel" thing comes when I notice the band grabbing and the car sort of springing ahead ever so slightly, along with the engine revs coming down just a bit.
Jerry that is what I have always done but since I switched over to Kevlar years ago I have always had a nagging doubt about my ability to feel if the low band is slipping. I guess I never worried that much about it with cotton bands but the fear of cracking a drum with Kevlar linings looms heavy on my mind. The other thing that I have noticed is that the feel seems quite different from one car to another even though they all have Kevlar linings now. The pedal on my '27 is much softer than on my earlier cars to the point where I feel like I could keep pushing the pedal down further if I had the floor board clearance to do so. I guess a lot has to do with the wear on the cams and possible bending of the pedal over years of driving plus the possibility of the drum being thinner.
I think I can feel the self energizing action that tightens the band even more right when the drum stops and there isn't any slipping when pulling down the throttle further. I have a wood band on the low drum, though the old stock Scandinavia on the reverse feels quite similar.
I have had two cars on which the cam and notch were worn so much that the proper adjustment would engage the drum below the floorboard. If I adjusted it to operate 1 1/2 inch above the floorboard, it would drag. After blowing the low drum twice, I discovered the cause and replaced the notch and the cam. No more problem since then. But two drums are shot and unusable. Fortunately I had a good one to replace. So any of these three can cause the problem Bad notch, bad cam, or bent pedal.
If your band contracts to where the drum does not slip with the pedal all the way down, and when in neutral you can push the car without turning the engine or turn the crank without moving the car, you are OK.
I'm glad I read this entire thread before commenting. Norm answered my question before I had a chance to ask it.
Some of you who have looked at the tractor and doodlebug thread have seen the Cultor tractor I have been working on for the past month or two. Dad has told me that it needs the band liners replaced, and after driving it I am inclined to agree. There are no floorboards, so I can't use this method to determine pedal adjustment. Thank you for helping me with this project, Norm!
How did you know that the drums failed?
Dave: I'll venture a guess.. the lining needed very frequent adjustments and lots of lint filled the accessory transmission oil screen. With some further inspection, a crack in the drum should show when the engine is slowly rotated while looking down through the transmission inspection lid.