Help a failing old guy who can't remember much of anything any more. What's the name of the wood filler many of you use to repair wood components on your T's? I have something (non-automotive) I need to repair and the product discussed from time to time here would be just right.
Thanks!!!
I haven't used it, but I've seen several references to Qwik Poly.
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/344684.html?1361978302
Kwik-Poly?
That's it!!!!
Thanks!!!!!
I have had success with Minwax® High Performance Wood Filler (a suggestion only).
Those interested can review the following:
Epoxy Repair For Deterioration And Decay In Wooden Members
http://www.gsa.gov/portal/content/112030
American Wood Protection Association
http://www.awpa.com/
If you use Kwik Poly put it in your freezer for a couple of hours before you use it, cold extends the work time when mixing to about five minutes or else you will have about one minute. BTDT.
Rick
Minwax High Performance Wood filler is the same as Bondo. It's purely for cosmetics - it does not add any structural integrity.
I've used it to fill open grain on 50 year old exterior window sills prior to painting.
Wood filler works just fine filling the small holes left by many years of tacks on the tack strips and top bows. But will not fix any structural problems with the internal body frame.
Norm
I have also used regular wood glue and round toothpicks to fill tack holes, works great!
Here's a video showing the toothpick method (not my video):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKP4JvyUB9Y
I store my Kuik-poly in the refrigerator, it helps the shelf life, AND gives you more working time too!
Kwik-Poly was originally designed to use in the equine industry to help correct split/damaged hooves. The long-term issue with using Kwik-Poly in wood is that wood really needs to be "elastic" to bend/flex, and to hold fasteners such as nails. When Kwik-Poly is used, those characteristics are changed.
I was a big fan of it back a decade or two ago, however my experiences have been that after a vehicle has been driven for awhile, the wood fractures around the Kwik-Poly and makes a mess. My opinion in using it for Model-T restoration is do the job correctly w/o the Kwik-Poly, and only use K/P to "buy" yourself a short amount of time until the proper repair can be made.
I know of one AACA Grand National Sr. Winner that the restoration shop Kwik Polyed the doors. The owner showed me where it "leaks" out when the sun is shining on it and it gets warm. He tends to keep it in the garage. It has had 11 miles put on it since 1997. From the garage to the trailer and from the trailer to the show field and back.
Doug - Kwik poly is an epoxi that hardens very fast and can't be melted afterwards - it'll likely burn before it melts(?) If something drips from the doors from the heat of the sun, then it's probably something else? Or maybe they forgot to mix in enough hardener?
I use West Epoxy. West stands for Wood Epoxy Saturation Treatment. It can be used in many ways and you can add filler to it also. When it cures it has the tinsel strength of aluminum the same thickness. I would not advise it to be used on joints on a Model T. It is too rigid and cannot give enough to handle the road shock. 3M Marine Adhesive is perfect for joints and allows enough flex so that the joints won't fail from road shock. Just how I do things...