Hi everyone! Just checked in to the forum. I've been in the old car hobby for many years but only had Mopar's. I've wanted a Model T for many years and last Thursday one fell into my lap. Most everything is there and it ran last summer. I saw a video of it. The issue it has is it seems to be stuck in gear. I was able to move it on some castors and gave AAA a call. They moved it to my house and now it time to start some trouble shooting. The only thing I've done is pushed the break leaver fwd and stepped on the clutch. It went all the way down and did not come back up. Obviously and issue but would that make it so the back wheels won't move? When trying to move it I had the break leaver at the 90 degree position. I've driven one of these a few years back and had a great time. I want to make sure that I check everything before I start it. Any help would be appreciated.
It's not the easiest job, but the "Hogs Head" should come off. The problem is in there some were.
"OH" buy the way PICTURES
Before you remove the hogs head, check out every adjustment on the attached drawing. If the link between the low pedal and the clutch lever on the hogs head is not adjusted the right length it could go over center and cause the pedal to stick down. You can also look inside the transmission by removing the plate on top of the transmission and see if what is causing the pedal to stick. Here again, the band should be locked with the pedal about 1" to 1 1/2" above the floorboard. If the pedal goes too far down, it can stick, but if it does not go down far enough, you will have a drag on the drum. You can adjust the low pedal with the bolt at the right side of the hogs head. Adjust 1/2 turn at a time. Turn in to tighten the band and turn out to loosen the band.
If it was me, I would check a couple of things before I pulled the hogshead:
1) Pull up on the low pedal (left most pedal) to see if it will come up off the floor. Then, have a helper press the pedal back down while you watch the low speed link. It is possible that either the low band is too loose or the low speed link is mis-adjusted, allowing the link to go "over center" and cause the low pedal to stick to the floor.
Second, the car may be "locked up" because the starter bendix is stuck. With the car in high gear (brake lever fully forward), rock the car back and forth and see if the bendix will pop out of engagement with the ring gear.
Here is an article talking about the proper adjustment of the low speed link:
Thanks everyone. I'll be sure to try these options. I know I have a lot of testing to do. I'll get some pictures up soon. Thanks again I'll have some more stupid newbe questions soon.
If you want to search the forum for previous threads covering your questions, don't use the forum search feature, use Google with "mtfca" as one of the search keywords.
For example, here are results that showed up in Google when I searched for "stuck in gear mtfca":
Got one more question. There is a tube (not sure what it's called that has the throttle lever rod going through it. It connects to a rod that connects to the carb. Mine seem to be loose and when you move the throttle it does not move the carb. Is there a set screw that holds it from slipping?
Some of the advice so far applies to any Model T, and some doesn't. Your profile says touring, but doesn't tell the year. In some cases that matters. They're not all the same.
Sorry Steve it's a 26. I'll update it.
The throttle arm is pinned to the steering column throttle shaft, maybe your pin is sheared or missing? Have a helper move the throttle while you watch the linkage, the source of the looseness should be obvious.
Thanks again Mark! I'll look tonight.
Definitely check the bendix, it could be stuck which would essentially lock up the engine / trans / wheels. The pedals could be a simple matter of adjustment or a weak spring, and not necessarily part of the "stuck in gear" problem.
rock the car backwards, if the Bendix is hung, that will usually free it. Also watch the engine while rocking to see if the fan moves. I would strongly recommend obtaining the Model T Ford Service manual, a owners manual copy and others will chime in here on other books. You need to educate yourself on maintaining and operating a T.
Zachary, I think you may well have it. Obviously low, and probably high need adjustment, but pull the Bendix cover off and see if engaged
On the throttle rod, you should have a small lever attatched to it with a pin. That lever should be tight on the rod. The 26 originally had throttle linkage which went over the top of the engine to operate the vaporizer. Many of the 26 model T's have been converted to have the rod go through the center of the block and use the older type intake manifold and NH or other side draft carburetor which was made to fit the Model T's. You must check all the connections in the linkage whichever type you have and either replace worn parts or weld and file the part to make a snug fit. The moving joints should be just loose enough to rotate easily when you move the throttle lever, but not have a lot of slack. Sometimes, you can wrap a thin shim around the rod to take up slack, but better to find a better rod.
Robert, if the hi/lo pedal (left one) goes to the floor and does not want to come back up, check the pedal pin that holds the pedal to the shaft that actuates the bands. When I got my Model T that pin had sheared off and I had to take the spark plugs out to push the car into the garage because the transmission would not disengage. When I replaced the pedal pin everything went back to normal.
Thanks for all the tip everyone! I will start to play with it some more. Cliff I'l check for a pin and see. Also the spring.
Taking a cue from Jim: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html