I have a full set of bands to put in this week /weekend. I ordered the transmission book from Langs, apparently written with guidance from the MTFCA ?? While I'm waiting for it... are there a few pre-installation considerations or procedures I should be looking at?
Thanks in advance,
I read many threads about this a few years ago. A suggestion from the forum; After riveting the new band material to the steel bands, and before I installed mine in the transmission, I soaked them in ATF for a few days. I also installed mine before I installed the hogshead.
There are a couple of videos online:
I have been hesitant to remove the hogshead.... but it's like most other dreaded projects. Once you get off yer bum and DO it... it's seldom as bad as what you imagine.
For some reason, I dreaded pulling my exhaust and intake manifolds off, to replace the exhaust.... so I could finally properly attach the exhaust. Turned out the whole process took about 2 hours comma and was easy peasy!
Thanks for the video links!
If you do decide to remove the hogshead, here are good videos on band relining, installation and re-installation of the hogshead:
I've installed new band linings both ways—hogshead off, and hogshead on. The second was slow and infuriating, but having done it once I wouldn't hesitate doing it again, now that I know what not to do.
Does the band-pulling tool help? Yes. I made one and found it useful.
What order of installation works best? For me it was reverse first, brake second, low last. Others will differ, but that's what worked best for me.
Take extreme care not to drop anything into the transmission. Remove the key from the ignition switch. Before you install the washers and nuts, it's a common practice to stuff the transmission full of rags so nothing can fall in. That's fine, but count the rags when you put them in and when you take them out.
Soaking the new linings in oil is fine, but do it after you rivet them on the bands.
Steve, I'm glad to hear that you were able to install the low gear band last.
The only band that gets any real use on my '24 is low. I only use reverse for a second or two every drive to back out of my driveway, and I have my AC brakes adjusted so that they do most if not all of the normal braking. I have the brake band adjusted so that I would have to really stomp on the pedal to engage it.
The bands come from the manufacturer the right length. When you rivet start at the ends and leave about 1/8" beyond the end of the band. Then work the band material into the band. That way it will fit tight to the band. You do not want it to stretch between the rivets. You want it tight against the band. Put the rivets in through the band into the lining with the ends bent toward the sides of the band. If you use the tool made for tightening the rivets, they will curve back into the material when you pound them tight. Be sure the bands are round and not distorted in shape. If you have an old drum, you can use it to shape them. The removable end goes to the drivers side on American cars.
Thanks for all the tips! I have a 'band puller', but only one of my bands have the slit type it's made for. I'll likely try the plastic tywrap someone suggested on another post, for the other two.
If you can buy or borrow one of these tools, it makes a world of difference in getting the cover back on. The tool compresses and holds the band springs, while the attached pedal clamp (removed for the photo) keeps them from flopping around. Use the plastic ties on the band ears and the cover drops right into position. It saves time, fingers, and frustration. Keeps the gaskets from getting all torn up, too.