So I ordered the earlier Heinze coil box that takes the later coils. With that has anyone else used this box on there early cars and if so how did you fill the empty space around the coils?
After all is said and done I'll have to shim three sides of each coil to keep them secure.
The box is Lang's p/n 5000H.
One thing to check is proper spacing. If you have to add spacers between the coils to line up with the contacts, you may find the the spacing is wrong for the holes in the firewall. I opted for a style that held all the coils tight like a later coil box. But then the box is smaller and the spacing for the mounting bolts is different. If you will be making a new firewall, no problem. You can make either the terminal holes or the mounting holes different to accommodate whichever coil box you use.
I have done this several times. You should not need any shims. Maybe you received the wrong box?
Philip... I have used two of those boxes over the years. They are perfect for making KW (Lookalike) coil boxes for the 1913 year. Anyway, I used tongue depressor sticks slid down besides the coils to fill the space. I stained them the same as the coil box so when you open the lid, nothing looks too out of the ordinary. Plus, you slide them in diagonally, meaning the lower part of the depressor is toward the back of the coil and the upper part that sticks up is toward the front. The curved ends that stick up ever so slightly make it handy to remove the tongue depressors and this also makes removing the coils a breeze. I've run my coil boxes this way for 5 years with no issues at all.
I'm not so sure Royce. I've bought two of those boxes and they both needed shims to properly hold the standard Ford coils. Once I implemented the tongue depressor fix, they worked great and are still providing great service.
How is the contacts for the bottom of the coils set up? I have one of those coil boxes with not contacts. Do you just modify and attach a later year contact on the bottom?
Ed.. That is correct. I used a contact strip from a 1925 box and mounted it in the bottom of the wood box.
I have a box like that on one of my cars and there was not a lot of extra space at all. I went to Home Depot and picked up a few pieces of their formica samples in the larger size and used them. I could have also bent the contacts out but did not want to run the risk of breaking one off. Been working fine that way for more years than I can remember!
When I was looking to use a repro box, I found there were two available on the market. The ones sold by Langs made by a fellow in Canada and another sold by Chaffins. The one from Canada required shims between the coils because the box was constructed to be about the same size as the Heinze box. When the box was assembled the porcelain tubes would not fit the holes in my firewall, so I returned the box and purchased the smaller one from Chaffins. The coils fit snug without shims and the porcelains fit the holes in the firewall but the smaller box meant that the mounting bolts didn't fit the four holes in the firewall. Reluctantly I used a Splitdorf mounting hardware because it had wider spacing but still had to fill the holes and drill new ones to fit the box.
The perfect box would be large on the outside to match the dimensions of the Heinze box but smaller on the inside so the later coils wouldn't require spacers. This could be done by using two interior spacers on the ends or using thicker end pieces when constructing the box.
Maybe things have changed since I dealt with the issue, but that was my experience.
I also investigated this a few years back and found the same issues that Richard and others had.
I now use the original Heinze coil box with KW coils that I modified so they would fit the box. I have the original Heinze coils that RV rebuilt for me, but most of the time run the modified coils.
Along with all the usual coil rebuilding, I took the side off the coil, cut the dovetails deeper, and re-assembled the box so the front to back dimensions matched the Heinze coil.
Then some contact extensions were soldered onto the coil contacts. A few modifications were made to the inside of the coilbox lid to make it all work. KW coils are narrower side to side, so some shims are required.
Yes, it was very labor intensive, but I am delighted with the results. And I can slide in and run the original Heinze coils anytime!
: ^ )
I just did this a couple months ago on the '12 that I sold to John. The coil box came from Langs, it was made by Jon Anderson. Fit the later KW style 1914 - 27 coils perfectly. No shims needed. Beautiful product. I used some mounting brackets that were on eBay, they fit and worked fine also.
There is another company making these boxes, I have used two of theirs and they also fit the later typical coils perfectly with no shims. The wood work was not as nice though. I made my own mounting brackets.
Now that we have RV, why modify anything? Use the correct coils for the box!
I have to agree with Larry. I've been running my original Heinze coil box on my 11 since I got my car in 2008. RV rebuilt the coils then and they've performed flawlessly. I've got at least 7000 miles on them. Since then I've had RV do another 8 coils for the other T's in the fleet. He's improved the old coils a bit and offers a lifetime warranty on them except for the points. No reason now to change the coil box.
Just my 2 cents worth...
While there is no denying the fact that RV's products are works of art, for me, it was a matter of price. When counting the cost of the repro box from Langs, a KW master vibrator switch, the Stain, brushes, varnish... everything considered for the job, I have less than $250 invested in my coil box. I simply had to go that route. The picture below is the completed product. I've very happy with it.
I have the box from Canada, haven't checked the fit to firewall yet but will do tonight. My g'pa bought new K&W coils in the fifties and shimmed them to use in the Heinze coil box. I don't have an original set of Heinze coils and don't plan to buy them as they are expensive.
Shiming isn't a big deal but I was perplexed on why the box wasn't built with smaller inside dimensions to fit the K&W coils better.
If the box does not fit the firewall I'll send it back and get the Chaffin's instead.