For my WWI Light Patrol Vehicle, I'm intersted in some sort of stone protection for the headlights. I can find all sorts of metal screen type guards but the size is too small, 7" or maybe 7 1/2" for a motorcycle, but the rings on my headlgiths are closer to 9" across.
I'm presuming some of the speedster or dirt racer guys have found something to use.
Any leads? I can't even find the right size chicken wire around to make my own.
Thanks in advance.
well, my wife suggested some baking cooling rackes with the heavy stainless steel mesh, cut to size. I may play with some of that and post after photos.
CAUTION WHEN USING BAKING COOLING RACKS! She will now use the excuse that she can't bake any cookies or goodies because you used the baking cooling racks! I tell you it's a trick so she doesn't have to bake.
Cut a pair of circles of 1/4" thick clear LEXAN and add them in front of the glass lens.
Sure you want to add metal screens?
Likely these military T's went across country, little or no gravel roads to throw chips, esp. at Model T road speed
Might look better to do an eyebrow in military paint on the clear glass lens, like done by Ford during '19-'20. Those were for throwing the glare down on the road. Could be same for military use to help hide head lamp flash when hitting bumps and the T jumps up throwing light in the sky.
Haven't seen rock shield or screen on any period WWI trucks or car.
Instead of Ford green, use military color of the vehicle.
I've got the eyebrows on my42 GPW and the fender blackout light. I just like the look of the wire screen for an "off road" vehicle. More of a brush guard and stone guard than a blackout light thing.
The eBay wire mesh is just a little too small an opening. But now that I know they sell it, I can look for something and still have my milk and cookies.
Thanks for the opinions.
Look at the seller's other listings, maybe they offer a coarser mesh. If you don't see it in their current listings, contact the seller and ask.
I did find a seller in UK that offers a larger mesh, looks like a 4 will fit my needs. Now to find a source in the US or even locally. I'm a little surprised that some of the Doodlebug guys or dirt racer guys haven't come across something. Perhaps they just forgo headlights or glass altogether.
I'm thinking if I can shape a guard to the outside of the headlight ring and strap it on, I can remove it without damage if I don't like the look. Or make a set of rings with the wire mesh and get a spare set of glass and rings painted to match and swap them out as the need or event arised. Might be overkill on the cowl and tail lights as that glass is pretty thick and shaped.
Perhaps you are using the wrong semantics/words in your look-ups.
You can buy near any screen size plus wire size that you wish...used in sorting rooms for grading from flours, through sands, to pebbles, to gravel, to even rocks!
What it is called is WIRE CLOTH and your problem will be finding someone who can cut you a piece small enough. Maybe start with the jobbers/maker and find out who they sold the last roll of what you want to?
Here is the sizing chart/nomenclature from one maker.
P.S. Based on personal experience, stay away from any Stainless Mesh for a D-I-Y that you'd 'form'. It is IMPOSSIBLE to keep the surface from rippling when forming, but would be fine if trimmed in a circle and kept flat!
McNicholls Co. has quite a lot of those type of products, and are very helpful. Dave in Bellingham, WA
And this company:
Look for some headlights from construction equipment from the forties or fifties. I saw some headlights at MT. Pleasant Iowa this week in the swap tent. They were like the ones my dad had on his International TD6 dozer.
These headlight have a screen mesh about one half inch.
Here's what I ended up with. Wire cloth mesh attached with wire loopes to the ring and some eyebrows painted on a dark green on the glass. I'm not in love with how the eyebrows came out and I'll probably scrape them off and just go with the wire mesh.
Not show quality, but something a motor pool unit would have come up with to solve an immediate problem. Maybe not so much to prevent stone chips, but to keep shattered glass in place for some sort of protection from the weather. Or just to look cool.
The wire mesh looks good.
As for the 'eyebrow', here is the Ford specs for painting it on the reverse of the clear lens.
I found some transparent green model car paint on Amazon that I used to paint eyebrows on the inside of my speedster lenses. It is Tamiya brand. Here is the link. I like how it turned out. The color is almost perfect.
https://www.amazon.com/PS-44-Tamiya-Color-Transparent-Polycarbonate/dp/B0006SG28 K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1475628798&sr=8-2&keywords=transparent+green+spray+pain t
I have a book that was printed in the 1960's or early 1970's that was transcribed from the daily notes of a WW 1 Model T ambulance driver from late 1917 to 1918. They did not use any lights when picking up wounded, using any light could have meant death. This made missing shell holes a real trick but it was at times safer at night than by day. The only time the lights were used was in convoys well behind the lines and on regular French roads such that they were, dusty dirt or mud depending on time of the year. The book was out of print by the late 70's when I got it from another T collector. The book was printed for some sort of college project.