Other then lug bolt holes is in good shape. Don't see any cracks and rim is good.
Why not wire weld them up and remachine them.
I would find a better wheel and let that one go to the "I can fix anything" guy. They just aren't that hard to come by.
Mark, I agree with Andy. Before the internet in my corner of the world they were rare. The washers to fill the oblong holes we used to use I do not recommend.
I agree with getting another wheel.
I was a machinist/welder by trade and I didn't bother fixing my own.
The wheel can be repaired but given the fact that a real nice one that needs no such repairs can be had for around $100-$125 it really isn't worth the time. Use it for a BBQ grille base just for conversation value. I have sold many of them this way.
So how does a wheel get this way? We're the holes opened up so it would fit on a Model A hub?
Most likely yes, someone used it on a Model A hub.
It looks like you could just bolt it on and use it. It could also be used as a spare( it would fit multiple cars).
I just had a 'well l'll be damned'moment,reference Tim and Kevin above. I hauled home a whole bunch of A, T, and other make stuff home from the same farm. In the mix,I was tickled to have a number of T wires, every one of them ovaled out nice and neat like that. It has never occurred to me that someone had ovaled them out the quarter inch they needed for A bolt pattern. Now that I think of it, the old timers that saw those wheels knew what had happened and felt it was so obvious no need to expound.35 year old mystery solved. Used washers with those. BAD practice.
Given that the 26/27 hubs support the wheel in the center I thought about just using it as is. The spare wheel idea came to mind also. My only concern with using it as is, that when bolted on the nuts might want bend the studs out some as they seat.
I have a big drum rear end under Nellybell now with wood wheels that the spokes are getting on the loose side. I have gotten 2 rear wire wheel hubs/drums, 1 front, maybe a 2ed and very little cash in the pocket. (normal) I drive my 21 in a lot of traffic and the goal is to get more meat on the ground for braking even with the Rocky Mtn brakes. (Yes I swapped the AC's with a Friend that has a runabout with Ruckstell that didn't have any outside brakes) The other rim I have gotten is ok except the bead around inside has rust out issues on the inside and a few pin holes in the drop center.
I also think someone mounted this on a trailer or such with a larger bolt pattern.
How hard would this really be to fix? If nothing else I think I'd prime it to seal the bare metal and keep it on hand somewhere in case it's ever worthwhile to fix and return to service.
You know, squirrel it away so the hoarders can't get it.
Mark makes the case for why I say cobbling around with wheels is bad practice.--- I drive my T in a lot of traffic.Want more meat on the ground for better braking.--When I first started cobbling together T's to run around the farm neighborhood I grew up in, on a Sunday afternoon I could go to two or three fishin'holes in a 2.5 mile radius and meet or be passed by 5 other vehicles on the whole trip. Chuckle along at 25 mph. Scarcely use the brakes. No longer live in that area. Now the traffic would be hell. I've had enough trouble keeping A and T wires lugnuts torqued I'd be damned if I'd ask for trouble in today's traffic. Took me FOREVER to enter this.......
Yes Mark the wheel is centered by the hub, but it is held on by the nuts. You have a hole where the taper has been intentionally damaged. Torqueing the nuts will further distort the lug holes. Get a different wheel and we can all sleep better.
Kind of reminds me of the "Uni-mount" mag wheels you could buy. Personally I would carefully machine out a "half-washer" to fill in the missing area and then go to a really skilled welder I know. Or perhaps weld in the half washer and then remachine the hole. Either way several good fixes come to mind
I had good luck welding up a wheel where the hub was cracked and all the lug bolt holes were brazed and later cracked. I ground out all the brass and welded it with my wire welder. It ran true within an 1/8" much to my surprise.
I enjoyed the rescue mission. Why not give yours a whirl, you can always scrap it out if you don't like the result .
Just thinking that maybe a easy and SAFE solution is to re-drill 5 new holes in between the existing ones. A friend has a model A wheel with a similar problem. I'm thinking of trying this to help him out
Wouldn't the five new holes fall directly under the outer spokes making them very hard to tighten?
Looking at the holes, I wonder if someone didn't mount that wheel on a Model A hub.
It could be saved, it just depends on how much work you want to put in it VS cost of a better wheel.
10 spokes. Two sets of 5 hole spaces. Look again at the first picture!!
I see now that my idea was already mentioned. I blame it on dial-up--that's my story and I'm stikin' to it!
For those that can weld that's a no brainer fix. For those who don't wont to go to trouble its just get another wheel.
I'd toss those wire wheels and get wood spokes (painted black, of course).
Ford wire wheels are for speedsters and Model A's !