Bosch Distributor With Advance?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Bosch Distributor With Advance?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Monday, September 05, 2016 - 11:48 pm:

I just bought a Tudor with a Bosch distributor and it still has centrifugal advance. Anyone have experience setting one up and driving one on a T? PK


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Matthiesen on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 12:09 am:

Are you sure that the centrifugal advance is still hooked up? I believe that the Texas T type Bosch distributor leaves the centrifugal advance in place but disables it some how, maybe with a locking screw. The Bosch distributor is for a VW and will not advance correctly in a T due to the different motor RPM's.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 12:14 am:

I can see the weights below the points and they still move when I move the rotor. Your right, the timing just doesn't quite feel right. PK


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank van Ekeren (Australia) on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 12:29 am:

Check which way it's rotating, a un-modified VW one turn backwards on a T so the weights do nothing.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Matthiesen on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 12:40 am:

The following is the first part of a copy of installing instructions for Bosch VW distributor in Bosch Ford T front plate. Copied from Snyder's on line T parts catalog. I would give them a call because it says the advance is disabled.

TIMING THE BOSCH 009 DISTRIBUTOR 1. Set the distributor point gap to 0.16-0.20 2. The centrifugal advance mechanism has already been disabled. 3. Remove the Ford cam gear nut, or the original Bosch cam gear nut and replace it with the nut supplied with the kit. Sometimes it is necessary to use a thin washer behind the nut to properly align the two distributor gears. The only way this can be determined is by taking measurements of the relative positions of the two gears, Some misalignment is acceptable. 4. The cam gear nut has two ears. Install the distributor cam gear, making sure that the two grooves in the gear are aligned and seated on the two ears of the nut. Install and tighten the Ford retaining nut. 5. When properly installed the gears should be centered on each other. ....


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kevin Matthiesen on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 12:42 am:

Thank you Frank, that is probably the answer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 01:57 am:

I see a 'timer'rod to the distributor body. The one on my roadster used a bellcrank. Never seen one with both manual and automatic advance. I must have missed something.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 10:30 am:

Jim, it does have a bellcrank. That is the question. What I've noticed is that as the rpm increases I have to retard the manual advance to keep it running smooth. PK


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James A. Golden on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 11:09 am:

The spark lever cannot be pulled down more that halfway, if the distributor has the centrifugal advance installed and functional.

Pulling the spark lever down more will make the engine sound like it is fighting with itself.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 01:06 pm:

Pat - If not in possession of a bell crank designed/engineered for the purpose of adapting the Bosch distributor to the Model T Ford, here's what I'd do:

With a piece of scrap iron or aluminum plate, make a bell crank of what appears to be approximate appropriate size, drill a hole for pivot point in the center, and then drill numerous holes of same size very close together in a straight line lengthwise on both sides of the center hole. That will give you numerous choices to adjust pushrod/pullrod position and bell crank pivot point for appropriate length of stroke for full advance & retard position of lever on distributor and also for spark advance lever on steering column. All of the holes that you end up NOT using won't hurt a thing. But then, that's just me,....."engineering on the fly", right? FWIW,......harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Pat Kelly Montana on Tuesday, September 06, 2016 - 11:09 pm:

James that is what it feels like. I end up with the spark lever all the way up when up to speed. After starting it runs best at idle and low rpm with the spark lever at nine o'clock.
Harold, it has a bell crank so I'm in luck. PK


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