For those with big pockets...
Paid more than that for mine. It will sell, I think. You can't do the job right without one.
I took one just like it to Hershey 2 years ago. Not many people knew what it was,or wanted it. If I have room I might take it this year.
I've seen them sell for as much as $4000, but have been in nicer condition. This one is pretty beat up.
How much do you think that table weighs?
"You can't do the job right without one."
Are you kidding???
If you are talking about people with very limited mechanical skills and no ability to make precision measurements, then you might be right...
Adam, Erik is an excellent model T mechanic. He works to precise tolerances and never settles for good enough. He has a good head on his shoulders and wouldn't waste money.
If Erik says "You can't do the job right without one" and then parts with funds north of $3K for his jig I would question the knowledge and experience of anyone else who disputes the statement.
I have had Erik straighten a pan for me and previously had another mechanic straighten two other pans. Erik's pans come out perfect.
Nope. Not kidding. A model T is not built correctly unless the fourth main bearing, that being the support for the transmission tail shaft, AKA the ball cap, is in alignment with the crankshaft centerline. This is entirely dependent on the crankcase, at least with the pre-1926 engines. The later ones you can fudge with the hogshead bolts to some extent. I am not suggesting that anyone who builds a model T without a pan jig has limited capabilities in any way. We have seen here on the forum that people understand the problem and have built their own tooling and achieved proper alignment. Not everyone has access to the original KRW stuff. Untold numbers of T engines have been built without straightened pans since the first one to break down and be repaired by someone without a lot of specialized equipment. Many of them by me, years ago. The T engine is a wonder of durability and repairability under less than perfect conditions. But sooner or later it reaches its limits, and the newest one is nearly 90 years old. You will continue to see pictures here of busted cranks and cylinder blocks that can be prevented. Fordially, Erik
No need for fight here fellas. Adam is a good guy and a very competent mechanic too. I'm sure he wasn't arguing against straightening the pan, he was trying to clarify that, if properly approached, it can be done without using the KR Wilson jig. Several have made their own jigs, using the dimensions from Ford's pan drawings.
Don't see any of the fittings that should be with It!
No ruffled feathers here. You can read in the text of my posting I know it can and has been done without the original pan jig. But it needs to be done. Adam knows this as well as I do, I have no doubt of that. Table and legs are the better part of 300 lbs. Mine was missing the small parts as well, I made them. I had to resurface the table as well. I considered making my own but given the time involved, I spent that much time on revenue projects and made enough money to get the real thing. No regrets here. If someone here buys this thing I can help with what it takes to make the missing parts. I will reiterate my past offer to any here on the forum to use my jig with my guidance to check your pan. I have not seen one that needed no correction. Most take less than one hour. After that shop rate applies.
I live in Southern California where there are several pan jigs. There is one thing however a pan jig can't align on a FOUR DIP pan, and that is the radius rod support. Most of them are out of alignment, and require straightening. If you have a four dip pan make sure this is done while out of the car.
Same thing happens to 3 dip pans, although less commonly. Usually they get pushed in and it springs the field coil when the pan to block bolts are tightened.
Shipping weight complete is 360 pounds.