Getting the engine out.

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Getting the engine out.
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ALAN FAIRCLOUGH from Houston, TEXAS on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 02:28 pm:

have a replacement clutch and spring to put into my engine. the easiest way is to get the engine out of the car.
I have disconnected everything and only have a few big bolts to remove and a hoist ready to pick it out. it looks like I may have to do some twisting and turning to get the pedals to go under the dash to get it out with the brackets preventing me from lowering the engine. I think I am going to say a few choice words in the process and may have to wash my mouth out with lava soap.
Any advice?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 02:51 pm:

You might want to pull the hogshead off before you pull the engine. Otherwise, as you say. Twist-n-cuss.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 02:59 pm:

At least take the starter off. A d if you go that far, might as well remove hogshead. Especially with one person.Tough to lift and maneuver things around by your lonesome, especially a first-timer. And, unless you have religious reasons for not swearing, you won't embarrass the car.I guaran-DAMN-tee you she has heard all the words before!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 03:48 pm:

Raise the front of the engine. as you slide forward the pedals should go down under the firewall. You might need to twist it a bit, but it should come right out.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Melham on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 05:18 pm:

I don't have much experience - there are people on the forum who probably remove and reinstall engines every weekend and are vastly more qualified to give advice. On the other hand, I recently did this for the first time and learned from my beginner's mistakes.

Lesson number 1, in my experience ('26 coupe), is that it it is vastly easier to do this manoeuvre with the starter off. I tried it both ways, and learned the hard way. With the starter on, there were a lot of words uttered that shouldn't have been. If you do remove the starter, they all say you absolutely have to take out the Bendix assembly first, or the magneto gets damaged.

The MTFCA restoration booklet on "The Engine" has (in my opinion) a great couple of pages on removing the engine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 05:25 pm:

I assume this is your 24. If so, and if it's stock, the service manual applies. That tells you the steps to take.

With an earlier car, like my 1915, I find it easiest to remove six bolts and raise the body a couple of inches.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Henry Petrino in Modesto, CA on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 05:32 pm:

I suggest using Dove instead of Lava. The pumice in the Lava will damage the enamel on your teeth.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 06:18 pm:

Easy one-man with care and a good cherry picker lift, and two spark plug hole eyelets.

Place one eyelet in the #3 spark plug hole, that allows lift to clear the 'ears' of the crankcase, even with starter attached, the engine slips under the firewall.


'23 touring body, note engine is now lifted slightly forward of the firewall, (removed the binding pieces, exhaust, carb, gas line, wiring etc., detach the steering column from firewall and slide it up into the drivers seat, then all bolts to frame, univ., and of course the wishbone underneath!)


Then stop.... let engine back down some to rest on frame,.... re-position the lift hook to #2 spark plug hole, that will allow the engine to tilt way back, and the hogshead and pedals will clear the firewall.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan B on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 07:10 pm:

I have had good experience with Dove, as Henry suggests. It comes in pretty colors as well.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Terry Horlick in Penn Valley, CA on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 08:00 pm:

I do it just like Dan T. but I also use an engine leveler. That way, even with starter in place, I can do it myself. Additionally, with the leveler, I find my limited vocabulary adequate.
I also find a good pry bar helps to finesse the pan ears back to place.

Engine on Leveler


Be sure you use forged eyes and attach the leveler with the handle towards the front so it doesn't bind against the firewall.
IMHO, TH


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 08:07 pm:

If you pull the hogshead first, I presume you would be looking at replacing it again once the motor is back in the car. That is something I would most definitely avoid.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Garrison - Rice Minnesota on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 09:01 pm:

I used Dan T's method on the '26 Sedan a couple times. I take the firewall off with the '22 touring car. As Dan described, I'm always by myself and use my cherry picker.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Val Soupios on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 09:58 pm:

Just got done taking the hogs head off and replacing it in the car on my '27 and the next time I will pull the engine rather than doing it in the car. It takes less time to pull the engine than it does to remove the hogs head in the car plus, when you do it in the car, it seems like a two man job with room for 1/2 a man to do it! Never again!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver- liberal,mo. on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 10:56 pm:

some where i read you can do it without a host , so i tried it you can can do it,i was a lot younger then,ha.ha. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Eviston on Tuesday, September 13, 2016 - 11:27 pm:

Since Alan is replacing the high speed clutch spring, and, I take it, the clutch discs there is no disadvantage to removing the hogshead before pulling the engine. I hope casual lurkers on this site do not assume we are ALL illiterate. Damn!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Allan Bennett - Australia on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 06:28 am:

Jim, the disadvantage comes if Alan re-fits the engine and then wants to fit the hogshead when it is back in the car. See Val's post. If the engine comes out with the cover on, it will also go back in with the cover on, thereby avoiding one of the nastiest maintenance jobs on a T.

Allan from down under.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Melham on Wednesday, September 14, 2016 - 06:36 am:

It was the battle between the starter and the steering column, which was fully in situ, that inspired the cussing when I tried it.


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