Are the older Mitsubishi alternators with the small box on the back (that might be a voltage regulator) very repairable?
The box is a plug in and seems like it was often the problem a few years ago.
Are those boxes still available?
Without knowing what vehicle may have used this alternator and having a part number or model number, it appears very difficult to find new parts.
You can use a late 60s chrysler style regulator to feed the field circuit. I've done it many times. To test the alternator put 12 volts to the terminal labeled F and the alternator should give full output. This is the same terminal you will use with the above regulator. If you want a 6 or 8 volt regulator you have to modify the regulator internally.
Jeff, do you have any more information or a schematic of that alternator?
Does F stand for FIELD and represent the Magnetic field required to make electricity?
Finding a late 60s Chrysler regulator and a schematic of how to hook it up might be equally difficult.
Last year I was working on a T that had one of those alternators that probably came from Ralph Reeder twenty years ago. They are known as "Luv truck" alternators I think. This one had the little box and it didn't work.
I took it to a local alternator / starter rebuilding wholesaler. They rebuilt it in a couple hours. Cost $35. Worked fine after that.
Use a Wells/Airtex 5K2.I usually pick them up for under 10$. The F does stand for field and is the only wire you must excite to make the unit charge. The 5K2 regulator has 2 terminals. One will be hot with the ignition and the other terminal goes to the field. The regulator also needs to be grounded.
What's wrong with a stock T generator? I have one on my '25, and it works perfectly.
I'm assuming that he has converted to 12V, Larry.
It's possible to use a 12v battery with the original generator too, the generator doesn't mind - but it's still limited to 80 Watts or so, making the need for amperes half of what it charges at 6 volts
Roger, I told him that and he has a good generator.
He also has a Bosch distributor that does not need much current.
Jeff, that was a good tip you provided to me.
My friend has a test bench to spin the generator, but the alternator fit nicely there.
Running the alternator and adding 12 volts to the F terminal produced about 10 amps of current.
Running the alternator with the regulator module plugged in again produced no current.
A new module is on order now.
Hopefully that is the only problem.
Thank you for the tip!
The alternator is back in the car now and works as advertised, thanks to the availability of the new $35 module.