Try as I mite,I can't remove the petcock from the bottom of rad
Used some heat, Moovit.
Also, could I run into a problem if I try to soldier the bracket at the bottom myself.

Since the petcock is not original anyway, why not use vice grips?

Can't see it not coming out with vice grips. The "handle' will snap right off giving you more space for the pliers. Your big problem with re-soldering that bracket is getting everything clean. You've got to move it clear (heat it /) and move it back in place with no gap between the pieces.

Hack saw it off, drill it out and run a pipe tap through it.

Thanks guys, finally got it off. Going to put the right one on later. Just talked to an old model T guy and said he will help me with the soldiering part.
Thanks again
PaulB

1. Drain since It is not origional it is not important to save it.
Just remove it with vice grips and get a replacement.

2. Bracket since resoldering looks to be a tough thing to,do and bailing wire is out of vogue you could use a few tie wraps to secure it.

As there is no cross tie through the core, this is likely to be a problem area in the future too--it all depends on how rough the roads are that you go on!

Aftermarket radiators don't always have a cross bar in the core. For example, note the two aftermarket radiators below. (The one on the right is a Wards Riverside.)

The one on the right isn't even for a T! Look at the size of that neck.

You're right guys, it is an aftermarket, there is a little plaque at the top from a radiator shop in Prince Albert Saskatchewan. Once I get it back together I should be good for a while as roads up here are all really good, not many dirt roads, all paved.
As well, it looks like I'm going to have to replace the wood under the hood shelves.
Thanks for all the advice guys.
PaulB