Rebuilt the pedal shafts and cams... feel pretty good about those being up to snuff now. New band linings are ready to go in. I figgured n I could make one of those 'bands keepers' for the assymbly.
Looking at the magneto... on the flywheel side, I found a few of the small rectangular metal plates a little off kilter, and straightened them ip (the ones that out at the end of the magnets, on the spool stand-offs). Found a few small bits of metal 'stuck' to them, but not much.
On the top of the coiled, stationary part of the magneto, there's the bronze or copper triangle with the solder blob on top. The solder blob is loose, but doesn't pull off. I suspect it should be soldered to the triangle... along with the copper lead from the adjacent coil ??
(Looks like another book to get!)
Inside the clutch spring, there is a metal sleeve. I have yet to look in the catalogues or, again in the transmission and service manuals.... should that be slit, or have splits heading fore and after? I woukd think not, but they appear to be pretty regularly spaced.
How much rotational slop should there be in the rear wheel forward-backward motion, just before the transmission engages? I suspect most of that play is in the u-joint?
If those magnet clamps are off kilter then the brass screw could be loose and backing out. Once they are tightened the threaded end of the 16 screws should have been peened over or staked to prevent this. If they back off and they hit the coils you could have a major problem.
RV Anderson sells the isolated parts of the coil ring where the solder blob sits if you can't get it to work right. The solder blob shouldn't be loose.
I think I've seen cracks in the spring sleeve - mostly in the folded outer flange and considered non problematic since they looked like they've been there since it was made. From the rivet holes where it's held to the output shaft there shouldn't be any cracks.
Do you know if the rear axle has been restored with bronze thrust washers? If not positive on that and if you haven't got accessory outer brakes, I'd suggest it'll be your next project before driving much at all. The original babbitt thrust washers has a nasty habit of cracking with age, letting the differential slide to the left and fail at some time when you really need your brake..
Cory: very good. They were all a pretty tight fit, but it will be an easy deal to peen them over, now.
Roger .... thanks for the RV Anderson tip ... I'll check it out! I found a catalog photo of the clutch spring sleeve ... and those splits appear on new ones also. They may not be splits, but lines of some sort.
I re-built the rear driver's side roller bearings and hub 2-3 years ago ... unfortunately, about a month before I found out about the bronze thrust washer! So .... It hasn't been done since I've had it, and doubt if my Dad did ... so, likely hasn't been done for at least 20 years. :-( Yep ... time for a pull-apart! Luckily, I won't be driving it much, but do realize that sucker can go out at any time, without warning.
You can't solder the contact button to the triangle which is an insulator!
If the mag coil is an original it may be time to replace it. Is the insulation on the coil winding getting brittle? If the button on top of the mag ring is loose that could be a definite indicator about the rest of it.
Hmmmm.. we'll call good to know it's an insulator, and isn't supposed to be soldered to! So... anywhere you can suggest b I can read up on how it's installed and 'should be'? I might assume, then... that the solder blob is soldered to a conductive rivet, that goes through the triangular insulator, and it has worked loose?
John....by magneto coil... are you talking about the whole of the magneto ring? (As there isn't a single coil) if so... I believe this is original to the car with no work done to it. If I had the transmission and engine out of the car, I would swap with a rebuild in a heatbeat. They appear to be quite inexpensive.... for the work involved in rebuilding one!