Magneto problems

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Magneto problems
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Elliott on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 10:24 am:

O.k., about a month or two back I posted that I was having magneto issues; while driving home from a leisurely outing in my '14 Touring (with a car full of family) the car stuttered, backfired and blew out my muffler! The car ran so poorly back to the house, that I barely kept her running until I hit the driveway, where she totally died. She ran perfectly on battery, but sputtered and died when switched to mag and eventually would just completely die when switched over. After following several paths to find the answer I decided to take the hogs head off to look things over and lookee what I found! It appears that something came loose and was flying around inside for a while, tearing off some of the cloth coverings on at least three of the spools and who knows what it's like on the bottom. I felt rather justified that it wasn't a problem I created, as one individual insisted was the case! After draining the oil, I found nothing suspicious and even turned the crank a few times with a small rag to push anything in the bottom out but still no luck. I did notice that one of the brass rivets from the reverse band was missing, and figure that was the culprit and it either disintegrated or is jammed inside the magneto somewhere. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to Joe Bell's in the future!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 11:23 am:

Did you check the switch first? How about crankshaft end play? Did you check the mag output?
I don't see any real damage to the coils except a little of the covering is missing. Brass would be non conductive and that missing rivet should not be cause for running issues.
I would have pulled the cover off the switch, disconnected the wire from the mag post and done a good jiggle test with a meter to see it the switch was making a bad connection.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By James J. Lyons III - West Virginia on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 11:33 am:

That happened to me once and the spring in the mag post let go and made a poor connection to the blob of solder on the mag ring. I was back in business shortly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Elliott on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 12:11 pm:

Mark, I went that whole switch route first; the coil box has been completely rebuilt with the plastic liner kit and I also re-wired and double checked the switch itself. There is no crankshaft end play, and the mag post is new and making complete contact with the solder area. I also checked it while running on battery and according to my analog meter, it was only putting out 5V to a max of 15V when revved. Lastly, I did the 1156 bulb test and the filament was bright, but did not burn out with sustained acceleration.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 01:43 pm:

Bill,

Just a suggestion, did you check the magnets for cracks??

I rebuild a few of these double round stack magneto loops and can tell they are very sensible for internal shorts. If one or more off your coil have short the magneto output will be poor or none.
I think you will need to rebuild your magneto build.

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Thursday, September 22, 2016 - 02:41 pm:

I see a sheared off rivet on the reverse band. Might want to check that out while you have the cover off too.


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