Arghhhhh....finally ready to reassemble the transmission.... new finger bolts came in today from Schneider, but measure .004-5 larger diameter than the old ones, and don't fit. I tried putting green one in the die that fit the old ones, and can only run them through about 1/2 way (only tried one, actually).... apparently due to their hardness.
The package is for 1909-25. Thought I did have a 24 3ngine and trans. Is there an different screen I should be using.
2 out of the 3 old ones are like new, anyway. The 3rd appears to be one cut from a bolt with a shallow cotter pin slot.... Likely to make up for the battered one I found that came out of draining the oil a couple weeks ago! (Previous thread)
The clutch finger screw , p/n 3337 1/2 is same for '09-'25, 3/8"x24 thread, 3/4" length.
'26-'27 Clutch finger screw is p/n 3337E.
3/8 x 24 works..I got a sad headbutt to fashion the 3rd screw with... and fit perfectly. Apparently, this batch of screws (were indeed packaged as 3337 1/2) are simply oversize, or metric, or something. Ate the '26-'27's just a tad larger? The ones in my package are not 3/8... and doubt if they are any std American sized bolt....
Dennis - One small point that you probably already know, but if not, might help......
You said,...."Thought I did have a '24 engine and trans."
If the top of the hogshead is bolted to the end of the engine block with two bolts, you have a "new improved" or, '26-'27 engine. If the hogshead is NOT bolted to the rear of the engine block, but the two threaded bolt holes are there, you still have a '26-'27 engine but with an earlier hogshead,....which is not at all uncommon after 90 year or so,....FWIW,......harold
I called Snyder to let them know it appeared NY screws were oversize, so they could check. The tech actually opened up several packages to mic them and test them in a clutch finger, and they all went in fjne... if anything, a bit loose. He suggested I mic the inside of the finger screw hole on the finger itself... and/or to run a tap through them to check the threads. I did tje latter, and sure enough... it bound just a tad, but the tap cut right through with little effort. The purchased scores are just fine!
Commencing with the put-together, finally!
.. and u have to add, thanks to Snyder's support for taking the time to check. I also had a wrong set of parts sent... I had ordered 4 load resistors to go along with the led tail lights I finally gave in and purchased... but some little metal connectors were picked instead. He got the right out today, at no charge.
Whoot! Whoot! To Snyders!
You ever tried an electronic flasher for the led lights instead of resistors? They work pretty well and use less battery than the load resistors.
Hmmm.. no,I have not. Are they plug-in compatible with the normal ones used for turn signals? Can't be more expensive, either!
Correct. Plug in flasher into normal socket. Does not rely on amp load to operate. We have been using them for several years now. Have had resistors get hot and melt stuff next to them if not insulated or equipped with heat sink.
Good c deal. Thanks for the info!!