Nh tag removal

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Nh tag removal
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 03:43 pm:

I learned about the brass plugs on the NH carb and have the photos printed off. So I know the tag needs to come off. The pins are on back order from Smith and Jones and will be here in about 3 weeks. IF I get to this job sooner, will the carb function without pins in those holes? I aint looking at 1 right now and have not removed a tag yet. I am wondering if I can reuse the pins already there?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 04:28 pm:

Yes, it will work without the pins. All they do is hold the tag on. If you get real lucky you may be able to pry the tag and pins off without doing any damage to them, but probably not. If the carb isn't for show, I'd use Stan's method on plugging the holes. Instead of putting brass back in them, tap them for 8-32 Allen screws which can easily be removed for cleaning.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 04:40 pm:

Coffee!!!

Mack, I take a weenie chisel and pop the heads off the pins -- Copper rivets. Then I drill the copper rivet with an even weenier bit. Most of the time the bit will stick in the rivet and you can pull it out. Or you can drill down through it and then take the bigger but still weenie bit needed for tapping 2-56 brass screws and drill the hole with it. Then tap the holes for 2-56 screws.

Using the weenie magnetic tip screwdriver I gave you years ago, put the tag back on with two 2-56 x 1/4 brass screws.

Free secret tip: Just below the head of the screw, pinch the threads with a pair of needle nose pliers. When you thread the screw in the threads will bind where you wunched it up and keep it from coming out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 09:57 pm:

Thank you Stan and Steve.
So I will go ahead and work on the carb and run it.
I was worried that the holes went into the carb body.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By JD, Wichita, KS on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 10:48 pm:

I think these were #4-40 Screws.
And a homemade tag.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Charlie B actually in Toms River N.J. on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 11:21 pm:

In the first place how do you know the passages are plugged? A can of carb cleaner with the thin straw like nozzle is all you need. Spray into a hole and it should come out some where else. If all of them blow through you're OK. I've done over a dozen NH's and sold most on T-Bay without complaints and not one needed to be rodded out or drilled so if you don't check it out first you end up doing more work and wasting time that isn't necessary + possibly doing damage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mack Cole ---- Earth on Monday, September 26, 2016 - 11:30 pm:

Well charlie I agree,I don't know for sure.But I have the time to do it and it will keep from in front of the tv :-)
I do know the 2 carbs out of about 12 i have that I feel are best rebuild candidates are surface rusty and been laying around for years.
I want to make sure the 1 I put on is near as right as possible.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stan Howe Helena, Montana on Tuesday, September 27, 2016 - 01:28 am:

Because blowing through them does not remove 100 year old shellac and other crap that can and will be softened by the new Ethanol gasoline and can be drawn into the idle passage, blocking it. The idle passage into the throat forward of the throttle plate is about .007, doesn't take much to plug that.


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