Hi, First thanks to all for the good information I've already read in this wonderful forum. After many years of wanting a Model T, I've taken the plunge. I pick up tomorrow what I believe to be a 1926 tudor, an additional motor, and an additional engine block. In advance thanks for any tips on the following to help me with the pick up:
(1)In VT I don't need a title for this age car; only a receipt -and I can title it off of that. I looked in this club site and it said that the serial numbers are on the engines only -not frame. If I check engine number and it is a 1926, do I draft the receipt as a 1926 model T with S/N XYZ (using engine S/N?) Or, a 1926 model T with engine S/N XYZ? I ask in case the engine in the car is cracked and I need to use one of the other two blocks. How do I handle receipts working for maximum flexibility as to what ends up in the car is reflected when I title the car?
(2) Car does not run and probably hasn't been moved in at least a couple of decades. The tires are flat of course. I was thinking of using "fix a flat" just to get inner tubes to hold air long enough to get it on and off the flatbed. What do you think?
(3) To get the car in neutral and rolling freely, I do the following? no pedals pressed; Hand brake in mid-position (vertical position, 90 degrees to the floor)
(3)Anything else you can think of that I will encounter and how to deal with it to flatbed the car without additional damage?
(4) Any tools that you think I should take to make the job easier/ deal with likely problems?
Again, thanks for your assistance with these newbie questions. Best, Bill P.
1. Yes, I believe the only VIN is the serial number
stamped into the block. I don't know if you'll need a police officer to inspect the vehicle in order to get a title; here in Tennessee, you sometimes do.
2. I think Fix-A-Flat is a great idea.
3. Yes. You may have to find the "sweet spot", but it'll be near the top of the circle.
3. Prior to having the flatbed start to pull, jack up each wheel and see if it'll turn.
4. None that come quickly to mind.
If the '26 you have was build with engine dating after Dec 23, 1925, there is good chance of finding the original engine serial number stamped on the upper frame rail. So you may get lucky and find the motor is a match too.
Look on the upper frame rail in front of the front running board bracket.
More times on the passenger side, sometimes on the drivers side.
As for Fix a Flat, won't help. Just try to air them up. A flat hard tire usually won't get round again. You can just try to pull it off the flatbed with ropes and helpers to muscle it to the resting place.
Correct on position of the lever, if the T tranny isn't stuck. Many times the clutch pack is stuck tight and won't turn, as when stuck the T is in high gear and rear wheels if they roll will just be stalled by the engine stuck by the trans.
One way is to just put dolly under each wheel, a cheap source is furniture dolly from Harbor Fright, then the T will just roll where you want it!
If you need to all it, pull it by the front crossmember NOT the front axle.
Bill. Sounds like you have a fun day coming up! Put the clutch lever vertical to obtain neutral. However, it may or may not work that well. An option is to also remove the spark plugs (after blowing off any debris) and let the engine turn over as you pull it onto the truck. Put the plugs back in once its loaded and pull the lever all the way back. A portable air tank and/or a little compressor and a generator would be the ticket to try to inflate the tires. Larger trucks have air brakes and usually have an air fitting. This can be a source of air to refill your portable tank. The tires just may take air...you never know. Or, just pull it on the flats. New tires will be needed anyhow.
As far as pulling it, try to latch onto the frame somewhere rather than just pulling on the axles. If it's a hard pull, you stand a chance of pulling the wishbone right out of it's ball socket. If she's pretty rusty and things are just sort of "hanging on", I would wrap the whole thing, like a sausage, in a big blue tarp just to keep stuff intact. If it's a hardtop car, the roof canvas could get peeled back by the wind.
These were in sales flyer in the mail today. Works well from rolling the light weight T.
Everything above is correct except Dan's few days late on the date of first frame dates. If you have the same number on frame and engine, the car has its original engine.
Thanks Bill E.! I packed the jacks to do the wheel turn test. Excited, but definitely in over my head. However, my goal is to enjoy the process of working on the car. Again thanks!
Thanks Dan T. This is helpful.
But, if I have the seller sign a receipt saying for a 1926 model T with Engine S/N xyz, and I title the car with that, What happens if that block is cracked and I have to use one of the others (because the original is cracked)? The title will have no reference to a S/N that's on the engine or car. Does anyone know how others do this? I'm sure I'm not being clear, but the concern is that I get one or more receipts signed by the seller, so no matter which block I rebuild, the title I get matches what is on the receipt and the car. What about the idea of having three receipts signed for a 1926 ford with the three block numbers, so I'm covered no matter which block I use? Again thanks!
Gary W. Noted -thanks! I'll make sure to go on the frame. The car has to be pulled out from the back. What I'm understanding is that I should not pull from the differential either. Is that correct? Again thanks, Bill Prado
Dave Y., thanks! I just packed my deep sockets, to be able to pull the plugs. Thanks!
Dan T., talk about happy coincidences: I purchased two exact furniture movers like the ones you mention! (We had to move my wife's dresser, which is a standard veneer-covered-lead dresser (based on the weight, so we bought those to move it to paint the room). They are now packed for tomorrow. Brilliant! Thanks, ~Bill Prado
One of the engines is a bare block. I'm assuming that I can lift it and put it in the trunk of my daily driver. Is that correct? I saw a Mike Bender engine rebuild video and the machine shop fellow appeared to be able to move the bare block -although he was a tad (Ok, more than a tad) younger. The other is a complete engine/transmission assembly. Can two people lift that? In advance thanks, ~Bill Prado
You can probably manage the bare block. For the engine/transmission assembly an engine hoist would be good to have. If you don;t have access to one you may be able to roll it onto a dolly (a couple like you might use for the wheels) and you can roll it onto a trailer. It is pretty heavy.
Thanks John Z. That's a great idea RE the dolly and roll it onto the flatbed. Thanks! ~Bill Prado
The spark plugs will take a 15/16" deep socket.
If the number is on the frame, use that. If it's an earlier car, sometimes "somebody" puts the number on the frame for the inspectors. Nobody in the bureaucracy has a clue when Ford started numbering frames.
A small insurance against having to change the engine, might be to get the seller to give you a receipt for the two other units and include their numbers on the receipt. That could satisfy the licensing authority that the engines belong to that car.
My '27 has the serial number stamped on the right frame rail under the floorboards. Most Model Ts that I have encountered don't push all that easily even with the lever in the halfway position.
I have the car home! I followed good advice received here and all went well. The wheels all turned. The transmission was not locked up. All tires held air too. I was able to lift the bare block fine, but used the furniture dollies (two) for the complete engine. I also had the receipts filled out so I had receipts for the engines too. I advised the flatbed driver about the crossmember. He was very careful. All went well -in no small part due to the generosity of all who posted to help me. Thank you! ~Bill
I don't know how VT handles things, but here in CA, the important ID number is the one on the frame, our DMV doesn't trust engine numbers, as engines can be easily changed.
So, if you have to change engines, the frame number HERE is all that's necessary. Your mileage may vary!!
Glad it worked out--Doncha love it when a Plan comes together?
Dave Dewey: When I had the CHP verify the numbers on the 19 Touring he put a blue plate on the front side to the sea=t from on the passenger side.
When I had the Chp verify the '17 he did not put a plate anywhere on the vehicle.. Strange. When I received my insurance card for this year I was checking everything on the sticker and the title
and what do I find the plate number is different.
So I went to our AAA office and he looked up up from the title and it shows the correct register license plate. My plate on the Depot Hack is "MYTHACK" and the title is different. Both the vehicles are titled only in my name but he said that when the title come back it will have he correct plate letters on it.
Weren't you going to Dunsmuir some weeks ago or do I have you mixed up with some other person?????