Ok I promised to post this, don't laugh. Got the old T out for a spin today under it's own power. I have lots of tuning and final touches to go but I am getting there.
Looking and sounding good!
That grin says it all, glad to see another car and good fellow out for a spin . . . .
Sounds just right to me.
I hope that will be me some day.
Miss those T sounds so thanks for the post
Any day you can drive a T is a good day. The smile says it all.
LOVE the smiles and love the car.......
Too cool! You need to find a combination headlight/horn switch.
Larry, I have the switch, dimmer coil thing and some wire but having trouble deciding which wires go where from the very small feeble drawings I have found so far.
I think with the help of a meter I know what needs to be connected to the switch but not to sure on the wires from the dimmer coil. I have put that off until I can be sure what goes where.
If you have a real '18, I don't think they used the dimmer yet.
Sounds great .... nothing like that put .. put .. put. Sometimes when I'm driving on a road by myself I turn my head a little to the right so that I can hear that sound even better. Recently put an exhaust deflector on the muffler so I could hear it easier.
Laugh? No way. I sat down and cried after the first time I had my '18 (July '17 body) Tin Cup running. Like yours, mine hadn't been running in about as much time or maybe a bit worse. For me, the last mechanics knew little about automobile engines.
That little bugger runs real nice!
Cool! No dimmer?
Great video! Beautiful Roadster!
For Larry – You are correct that the early 1918 cars did not come with the dimmer resistance coil. But the factory drawings to add the dimmer coil to the firewall are first dated Dec 8, 1917. (There were several revisions.) It would have been a little while before the new firewalls were on the assembly line. But clearly they would have made it during the 1918 model year production. That is also reflected in the Price List of Parts that has the dimmer parts listed for 1918 and onward (wires, dimmer, etc. listed for 1918 use as well as later dates. Note from memory – I think they had one 1917 date – but I would have to look and see if that was just a clamp or what.)
For Mark – I haven’t forgotten your request for additional information on the 1918 dimmer resistance coil. I’ve changed companies, changing computers, getting gas before the hurricane may or may not impact the availability, and watched a lot of TV – not so much the TV but the rest is true. From your video it appears you already have the dimmer resister mounted in the approximate correct location. Your firewall looks “too good” to be an unrestored original firewall. They usually have delaminated over the years. But it could be a restored one or your car lived a very sheltered life. Do you know why it is located there? I.e. previous firewall used as a pattern? Actual original firewall?
Note the reason I said “approximate correct location” is that the location changed with time. The first change was 10 days after the first drawing was completed. They moved it just a little.
So was your earlier question “Where should the dimmer coil be located?” or was it “How should it be wired” or both or something else?
From John Regan’s research on the Model T Ford wooden dash, at the thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/175960.html?1292375409 he states:
By John F. Regan on Monday, December 13, 2010 - 01:28 pm:
I went back and checked the dates and forgot to also mention that my dates are "design change dates" and not on-the-car dates which we have to figure out by ourself. The dimmer coil mounting holes were added to the dash on the engine side on 12/8/1917 and 10 days later moved slightly horizontally towards the center of the car on 12/18/17 probably to gain clearance for installing the top steering column bolt and nut. On 9/23/21 the dimmer coil was moved up higher to a point that made its horizontal center line being about equal with the horizontal center line of the coil box. It also moved further away from the coil box too so it was moved up and over toward the steering column. Probably this was done to save some wire since the new location put it closer to the wiring hole that the wires went through. That wiring hole had been added on 2/5/19. The dimmer coil was used firstly with the "combo" horn/brite/dim light switch as near as I can tell since it ALWAYS had 3 leads on it - magneto, brite tap, dim tap. While the lead lengths changed on the dimmer coil from long to short as it was moved from the firewall to behind the ammeter dummy cover plate, the windings and electrical makeup of the dimmer coil never changed from its beginnings through to the end.
The dash board was drilled for the push-pull light switch up until 10/2/17 so clearly the push pull light switch and RAW magneto voltage was used for the lights from 1915-1917 and into early 1918 at least. Branch assembly also tended to lag behind any new design changes so there is good reason to believe that the dimmer coil and new combo switch may have been even later on cars assembled at branches.
There are other good things and photos on that same posting including the resistor on a 1922-25 block off plate.
Another good posting is located at:
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/44547.html shows the resister on a wooden firewall.
A better description of what wires go where is located at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/200361.html
I still don’t have a nice diagram of what attaches where on the dimmer switch (or if I have one, I don’t know where on which computer it is).
I think from Phil Mino’s illustration from the link above and shown again below (Thank you Phil!):
If the photo shows up larger than your screen, be sure to scroll to the right and up or you may miss the back of the horn / light switch. Based on that drawing it looks like the hot wire from the Mag post on the coil wire (T8894A) runs up the horn tube to the switch. From there the power is sent to the horn when the horn button is pushed in via T-7917B. And for the lights twisting the horn button selects Bright (T-7305 wire) or Dim T-8898 wire. And those two wires go back down the horn tube and connect to the Dimmer Resistance Coil in two (2) different locations. And then a single wire goes from the Dimmer Resistance Coil and a single wire goes to the headlamps that are wired in series.
Does anyone have a photo or illustration of how to tell which connection on the dimmer switch is the dim, bright, and lead to the headlights?
So many good questions … so little time.
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All good comments and info. As for my firewall the one you see in the video is new, I just worked up to look old. My original firewall was all there but falling apart and yes the dimmer was there.
Is there a way to tell which horn button your car should have if car is 1919-1920?
So Mark, do you have all the information you need to wire your dimmer coil, lights, horn, etc.? Or do you still have any questions?
And if you don't have any questions, would you please post and or send a photo of the dimmer coil showing where the wire to the lights is attached, where the wire for the dim is attached, and where the bright lights wire is attached?
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Ok after looking at all of these notes and the notes of the other threads I think I might be able to wire this thing up. Just need a quiet day in the garage to do it. I think I am set for now though, thanks Hap
As for the photo or diagram I will have to put something together for that. Using a meter I think I have figured out what goes where but we shall see.
I finally got to a high-speed connection and saw your video---it's WONDERFUL!
The look of joy on your face is priceless. I was showing it to Linda and some of her friends and they said, "That looks like you!" And it does look a little like the first time I got Barney running (our '25 roadster)--but as Linda pointed out, your steering wasn't rusted solid, and you didn't run into the bush! She would have to bring up that detail!
Thanks. I'm sure the question will come up again - and it would be nice to be able to say here is a photo of the dimmer coil and where the leads are hooked up -- or perhaps sketch. And show where the leads run (under the dash through the cut off corner of the metal dash shield would be my guess of where all the wires from the horn tube would be routed.)
Again great video and lots of smiles.
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