I have the '26 in the garage and now I want to remove the body. In advance thanks for advising which is the 1st manual I need to buy to guide me as to sequence (fenders, skirts, body, etc.)
Also, the Tudor body is pretty rusted, so I'm inclined to scrap the whole thing. Does any of it have any value if the body is rusty? The back seat is missing but it has the front seats. Hinges and that sort of thing are there too. Again thanks! Bill P.
Yes, it probably has many parts others could use. You can advertise it in the classified as a complete body or part it out.
Before you scrap any Model T parts, I would recommend you post some photos or have a knowledgeable T person take a look. In general the Ts had some very good/thick sheet metal and would normally rust through where the water collected. Once it was rusted through then the water could drain out ok (unless there were leaves etc. that made the moisture stay longer.) Normally that is the lower section of the body and doors. And there are patch panels available for the lower section of many of the bodies and doors. And depending on how rusted the metal is, I have also seen fiberglass successfully used.
I did see a 1931 slant windshield Fordor body that was left outside on its roof. The lower half of the doors and bottom part of the body were in excellent shape but the metal at the top of the body and doors had rusted through big time. But it was a perfect body to repair one that had rusted out on the lower parts or that had accident damage to the lower 1/2 of the body.
The vendors sell some of the metal parts to repair the bodies as well as seat springs.
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See The Model T Ford Service (most venders list it as T-1). Lang’s and others have it for sale in paper and digitally. Page 1 describes how to disassemble the 1925 and earlier cars – but there will be similarities. On Page 262 it discusses how to remove some of the 1926-27 parts. It is available on line for review at: http://mtfci2002.readyhosting.com/manuals/Model_T_Service_Manual/mtsm.html If you use that link, I would recommend that you consider donating something to the MTFCI as they are the ones that went to the effort to digitize that copy.
I apologize, I don’t recall if you have already mentioned your background of working with cars etc. If you are not experienced with working with rusted nuts and bolts, in general they can often be taken apart using a good penetrating oil (NOT WD-40), letting them soak a few days, using a punch and hammer to jar the nut. If you cannot work them free, then cutting the nut does a lot less damage than cutting what the nut is holding. I saw a perfectly good wire spoke wheel damaged when they used a torch to cut the wheel hub rather than the lug nut to get it loose. And in that case wheel stud was turning. All they would have had to do is remove the rear hub with the wheel still attached. Clean the hub, and spot weld or stake the rotating stud. Or they could have cut the nut etc. Anyway – please don’t start with a cutting torch or saws-all unless they are needed and then attack the easier to replace or repair part.
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While looking for info on how to install a 1926 Tudor, I ran across the same question you asked about how to remove one. Please see the posting at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/90767.html
I think that will give yo a lot of good information.
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There was one forum member with a tudor with homemade interior trim--he'd probably be very interested in your body parts.
David, you are correct.
Bill, I sent you a PM.
Save whatever you don't use and bring them to the Stowe show next year, and swap them for some $$$ to buy what you need.
Yes, rust does sell!
Thanks Ted. I should have specified that in addition to rust, the previous owner has stripped the interior as part of the restoration that never took place -and all of that was not found. That is, it is just the body without an interior, trim, etc. Even the back seat is missing. The only interior parts are the two front seats, which are pretty awful looking. But I will explore if anyone can get use from this versus scrapping. Thanks, ~Bill P.
Does your rusty 1926 T Tudor have the drivers and passenger doors? Even if the door bottoms are badly rusted someone with 1928-29 style Model A closed cab pickup or 1926-27 Cp & 2 dr may be looking for any doors if they have none.
Hap, thanks for the suggestion about the pictures. They are here:
There is rust-through on all panels and both doors. One door the previous owner "restored" but the workmanship is awful: Rather than reskin the door, he put an additional skin on top of the one that was rotted. It was not remounted, so I can only imagine what the second skin will do for fitting that door to a body. Also, the interior was not found. The interior had been disassembled. There is no back seat. The only interior part are the two front seats. Finally, the fenders and running boards are dented and have been welded when the mounting points rotted (that will not be fun to remove to try to remove...)
I checked for a Vermont mtfca chapter but there is none. (I was thinking maybe someone local model t person could use a part or other.) What do you think?
RE "T1" thanks; I was open that I'm a Newbie :-)
I like print books, but will use the digitized version until my copy arrives in the mail. BTW, I joined the club tonight to do my bit to keep this marvelous resource going!
To end on a high note: The car was resting on a rotting wood floor when I bought it, so I could not check out the frame as well as I would have liked. I was nervous that I would find evidence of a frame that had been bent and repaired, etc. Anyway, it is clean! And the rust is only surface rust on the frame. Ford certainly used good metal in these cars! Speaking about joy, I LOVE that I can wheel around under the car without lifting it. Absolutely love that! I have a '68 Chrylser and you have to lift it to do anything. Again thanks! ~Bill P.
Justin, I sent you an email. You may want to see the pictures as the car has no interior/trim. Thanks, ~Bill P.
Dave, as you mention Stowe, I take it you are a fellow Vermonter? Did you notice that there is no Vermont chapter? There is one in NH, however. Thanks for the suggestion about Stowe. ~Bill P.
Kevin, thanks for the suggestion about the doors. That is helpful. ~Bill P.
Looks like it's saveable to me.
Looks very restorable, would be glad if I could find anything as good body wise over here..
Roger and Tim, thanks for the assessment. When the body is off I will sell it whole and hopefully someone will want it. ~Bill P
I wish I had the money - I'm looking for one for a project. If you decide to donate it let me know. It's going to be a build / film project to help promote the hobby.
I would say that your Tudor is in better shape than what I began with. The exterior and interior restoration was an 18-month project, but well worth it. A lot of things had to be replaced, like the splash shields and the hood. There were numerous cracks in all of the fenders, dents that had to be removed and all of the fenders had to have sheet metal replaced where the fender met the running board. Both headlights had rusted out at the bottom and also had to be replaced. The upper left rear side had 5/16" of bondo that was removed and the huge dent taken out; in fact, the entire left read side was dented. The car must have been in an accident at some time as the right rear had been crushed and the right side had a bow that had to be professionally banged out. The front axle was also bent, though not visibly, enough that the car would severely shimmy when going over 30 mph. I bought one from Bill Bender in Seattle and the car drives like a dream now. Your body will take some work, but it will be well worth it in the long run. I love the Tudor. I can take my entire family out in it in all types of weather - and I do . Here are some before/after pictures.
jim, that's impressive! hard to believe the car in the "after" shots is the same car. It's beautiful -congratulations! Also, I love how you even put the baby seat in the rear seat!
Thanks. I had a LOT of help from a few close friends, guiding and assisting me along the way. Without their help, I can guarantee you that this project would have taken many more years to finish. This was my first restoration and, though it would never place in a show, it looks nice, is safe to drive and in much better shape than when I bought it ten years ago.
My doors were not in as bad of shape as the ones that you are describing on your car and all of the parts were there, which made the restoration easier. My car appeared very solid with the old green paint, but underneath it there was a lot of bondo that was filling in dents, rust cancer and holding things together, like the cowl. When I wire-wheeled the lower portion of the cowl, then entire bottom fell to the ground, as evidenced by the pictures. A long-time member of the Tacoma club told me that he would have never tackled so large of a project.
Lang's is fairly close to where you live and I would think that you could find some replacement parts fairly easily there. Even though there isn't a club near you, four of the five individuals that assisted me with the body work and interior are not members of the local club, though they all have interest in older cars and one even owns a Model T. The key is finding folks that are willing to donate their time to guide and even assist you in your project.
I can't say enough good things about the Tudor, even though I haven't owned any other body style. As I mentioned earlier, I can fit the entire family in it and drive in it all types of weather and still feel comfortable. I know guys drive their open cars during in the rain and cold, but I don't think I would like it. I feel extremely blessed to own an antique car and driving a piece of history. If you are uncomfortable with body work, I would really encourage you to find some fellas close by that have done that kind of work to give you their two cents worth and begin the restoration. I have no regrets!