I understand that there are at least 2 parts that can be added to a t engine to tighten up end play so that the mag will function properly without rebuilding the engine. I may not need either but am planning ahead.
Can you guys give me your thoughts and or vendors on these things? Anybody used them with success?
Here you go.
We had the same issue which that when getting Derrick Pang's flivver up to snuff. The vendors offered it but all were on back order with no idea when they would be available. Royce had a few and sold one to us, worked like a charm.
Derrick's helpers/mentors. George n Missourah(formaly L.A. left and Martyn Vowell on right.
Maryn with Derrick or Derrick with Martyn
Are good reproductions of these being made?
Love this place, great help you guys. So is there an issue with oiling or keeping it oiled? Any issue with the crankshaft?
You need to keep it oiled or it will not last long.
I ran one for a short while before tearing everything apart. It worked well, I just shot a couple squirts of oil between the pulley and the bearing.
Here is another solution...an adjustable center main. Loosen the lock nut, turn the screwdriver-slotted shaft with and eccentric pin and move the sliding bearing to set end thrust. Tighten nut. Might be a hard thing to find.
I have one like John, still in the original box. I will have to dig it out.
Ed, I would be interested in it. Can I get to it easily on a 3 dip pan?
Does anyone know if either of these parts would cause early crank failure? The on that goes on the front, what about oiling issues?
No extra stress on the crank - it's not like you're putting the crank in a bind, just reducing excessive play with a shortcut repair. Proper way to repair would be to add babbitt to the flange(s) of the rear main cap - and if you have a four dip pan it's almost as easy as swapping the mid main like the accessory above.
Leaks from the front of the crank is common when you have the standard felt packing there. That would take care of some of the oiling - otherwise some drops each time you take a drive would probably be enough for the front shim accessory.
There were shims made to fit at the rear main too - but as said above, soldering on some babbitt on the third main thrusts would be a more permanent repair. See this article: http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/Excessive%20Crankshaft%20Endplay%20Repair.pdf
The first one restrains the crank by rubbing on the rear face of the pulley. Not very elegant. Also, you are trying to control the gap between the magnets and the magneto stator at the the back of the engine, and that is best done, as Ford did, from close by. The effect of the device at the front will be influenced by thermal expansion of the block and crank, and by flexibility in the crank.
Something on the centre main would be better.
Bets of all is to fix the rear main, but access isn't easy with a 3-dip. Fahnestock showed a brass or bronze shim which replaced some or all of the normal bearing shims, joined by a semicircular piece round the front edge of the cap - a large U shape with holes for the cap bolts.
Or you can build up the white metal on the front face with a big (250W) electric soldering iron, and carefully file it down, checking the overall length of the cap with a micrometer or vernier as you go.
The U-shim would be easier to fit to the centre main, but there isn't much of a thrust face on the crank there.
THanks Chris, wonder if I can find a center like the one above. I know I will have to pull the engine at some point but I would like to drive it for a while until the snow flies this year if possible.