Driveshaft spool question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Driveshaft spool question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Fischer - Arroyo Grande, CA on Sunday, October 02, 2016 - 09:33 pm:

Can someone help with definitive information on the correct style driveshaft spool for a late (~April) '12 Touring ?

I know about enclosed spools vs open spools. What I don't know is whether my car would take a spool with the bumps on the aft flange or the style without the bumps on the flange.

Thanks in advance,

Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Martin on Monday, October 03, 2016 - 10:04 pm:

Dick, The driveshaft pinion bearing housing for your '12 should be smooth on the rear end, no "bumps" around the bolt holes.

Originally, the castings were made and drilled for 3/8" studs. When the studs were up-sized to 13/32". Ford drilled out the holes in the existing casting to the larger size, but this left little material around the outside of the holes. Sometime in 1913, the casting was redesigned to include the "bumps".

I say "sometime in 1913" since the record of changes states on 12/27/13: "Brought drawing up to date with housings as they are being made by adding extra metal around bolt holes".

For this reason, it is difficult to know just when the part was actually changed in production.

(Message edited by Dave_Martin on October 03, 2016)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Fischer - Arroyo Grande, CA on Tuesday, October 04, 2016 - 12:25 am:

Thanks for the info, Dave.

Of course what you say brings up another question. The spool on my car right now has bumps. Which means that the studs are no doubt the larger size. And yet I have what's clearly a '12 differential. Do you suppose the differential case halves are drilled out for a larger size stud, or do all studs have the same threaded ends ?

My car is a fully running machine, but it has a Warford. I have been collecting parts to remove the Warford and return to original. I do have a "no-bump" spool that I can use,but now I'm wondering if the '12 differential will be compatible with the '12 spool.

Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Semprez-Templeton, CA on Tuesday, October 04, 2016 - 12:41 am:

Dick, are you sure the bumpy spool in your car has the larger studs? The difference in size is subtle and a 3/8 stud will screw into a 13/32 hole albeit loose, so 3/8 stud will fit in a bumpy spool and could go unnoticed.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Gould, Folsom, CA on Tuesday, October 04, 2016 - 10:48 am:

Dick, the 3/8 inch studs were used only a short time in 1910. Your 1912 axle housings would not have used the 3/8 inch studs. Virtually all of the no bump spools were drilled for 13/32 inch studs. If your spool has the factory number embossed on the side, see if it has the letter B after the number. If so, it was drilled for 13/32 inch studs. Some of the earlier spools without the letter B were also drilled for 13/32 studs, but it yours has the B it definitely was.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Fischer - Arroyo Grande, CA on Tuesday, October 04, 2016 - 12:42 pm:

OK, Guys. I think I'm slowly getting my arms around this thing.

Right now my car is fully assembled and has an enclosed bump spool. I have a spare no-bump spool (P/N T191B embossed) which will go in once the Warford is removed. The no-bump spool has clearance holes for 13/32 studs.

Currently, the assembled car has 6 cap screws through the spool. The cap screw heads measure 5/8 across flats, so they are probably 2584-B screws from a 1922-27 car. I don't know for a fact, but presume that those screws are 13/32 diameter.

Putting all this together, it looks like my rear end housings are tapped for the 13/32 studs, and that's as it should be from what Richard says. My no-bump spool is a -B, with holes of about .430 I.D. And that's as it should be.

So I should have all valid parts for reassembly if I order a set of 2584 studs and 2584C nuts.

It's amazing how many "mix & match" parts you find in a T when you take a closer look.

Thanks again for everybody's help.

Dick


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