My '25 tudor has a later style choke knob and rod. The engine is a June 1925 production date and the encyclopedia states that the change was in "late 1925". Just based on how the knob rubs on the dash makes me think that it may not be correct. One more thing is that there is no pivot arm on the firewall and doesn't appear that there ever was. If the carburetor had the correct swivel on it would the knob sit properly at the dash? (Ignore the crazy return spring on the choke, I haven't gotten that far yet?)
That is correct knob and sq. shank shaft for the '25 up NH carb. Single choke and adj. knob.
Your knob drags on the dash because its shaft is just dangling now in space.
When you fit the missing pieces, all will function just fine.
(Message edited by Dan_Treace on October 03, 2016)
From the encyclopedia: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/1925.htm
" The choke rod with the integral carburetor adjustment was introduced late in the model year (before the 1926 models). These cars then used the U-joint type carburetor adjustment."
So I think it would fit fine with the u-joint in place. But there were many different lengths of carb adjusters for different body styles - maybe the correct length wasn't fully tested this early in production?
Since you didn't find evidence of a bell crank on the firewall, then your '25 Tudor likely did have the new style carb. adj.
One thing is to check the length of your choke/adj. rod with that knob. The correct one for your Tudor is p/n4129-C and should be 25 3/4" overall length.
Dan, the choke/adj. rod is right on 25 3/4" so it appears that mine is correct. I looked more closely and there has never been a bell crank installed. Could I assume that the pivot joint and needle valve that the vendors sell would put everything back where it should be?
Given that your car is a late '25 model year production without the firewall mounted bellcrank, I am speculating that it has the "clipped corner" patent plate held to the firewall with only two rivets. Yes? Inquiring minds want to know. Bill
Yep, the '25/'26 spray needle assembly is what you need. Might be found used too, but it's nice it's available as a repro:
As Roger posted, all you need is the new spray needle and the sq. tube with u-joint. Used spray needle assembly can be found at swaps, but the needle is usually dull at the end from over tightening into the seat. The original u-joint segment is pot metal, and most times those are worn or split.
Having the new repro today is great, as in the past you had to find good originals, and that was a search.
All you do is remove the old spray needle with oval holed top, and replace with new tall collar nut adj. spray needle assembly.
The 'ears' on the u-joint are squeezed ever so slightly to fit snug to the round tall collar, as its the friction there that keeps the spray needle in place from turning on its own, and leaning out or richening the mixture causing the T to stumble.
(Message edited by Dan_Treace on October 04, 2016)
Great. Thank you all for the information and taking the time to respond.
Bill, yes, the data plate is a two rivet clipped corner style.