My 24 T Coupe sat up for a few months, putting around 2 gals of gas to start it up, check things out and take it for a drive. I was going to add some more gas after getting it going and as usual the Carburetor leaked right after putting gas in the tank.
The last few times after sitting for a bit it does this. And as usual I tapped on the Carb and stopped it leaking. Its the needle valve sticking again as usual.
Langs and others sell repo needle and seats for the NH. I'm tempted to use the rubber tipped needle instead of the original metal tip style.
So which ones are the best to use these days? I know there different ideas out there.
I will do the usual cleaning of the carb I guess and see what happens after I get the most popular one if there is one!
I have used a Viton tipped needle for several years and have had no problems at all. I know some guys have had trouble with them, maybe from ethanol gas? So far, around here non ethanol gas is available, as far as I can tell. At least the pumps aren't marked that they contain ethanol. Maybe that's the difference. JMHO. Dave
I'm using Viton tip in my rebuild. My friend at Nappa recommended this technology, a fellow T'er at the Fingerlakes Tour this summer told me that's all he uses with EtOH blended fuel, adds nothing to his gas and for 5 yrs NEVER had any problem sticking or leaking. I didn't ask about the seat gasket which seems to be an additional issue noted on this forum. jb
"original metal tip style" covers a lot of territory. Many different versions have been made over the years. In my box of miscellaneous carb parts there are probably a half dozen different ones. I had a viton tip sticking, and replaced it with an original Ford type needle. So far so good. I believe I read that those are being reproduced now, but I don't know about the quality. You might have to spin one in lathe or a drill and smooth it.
Thanks for the replies on this one. Seems like I read the metal tipped one that is available now doesn't have a smooth face which may be an issue. I also have a few of the metal tip versions in my box of carb parts. Some look like they may be OK but I'll get the new rubber tip type and see what happens.
There is an easier way. Put your original needle in a drill press or drill and polish it with emery cloth. Once done, place it in the brass seat and kiss it a time or two with a light hammer. You should then be good to go and you can't beat the price.
John you are correct, the new metal tipped examples do not have a smooth face. This was supposed to be the latest and greatest too. I still have it sealed in it's original plastic bag. I do have a lathe so when I get bored I'll fix it. Right now I have a Viton in my NH and it works flawlessly.....go figure.
I have also used the soft tip needle design for many years without any issues. They were common place in carburettors in the 70's and 80's in my time as a Ford Mechanic. The big issue and mistake often occurring with a quality part was the habit some people had of using a screwdriver as a lever to hold the seat closed while bending the float arm to achieve the correct float height. By the time this was done, the needle was damaged beyond repair and leaks blamed on the parts instead of installation error. Imagine a float setting on a NH being too low and the float forced up to the correct height all the while forcing to needle into the seat!
Allan, we too used the Viton tipped needles back in the '70's in our hot rodding days. They worked very well then, and now, at least for me. Dave