...but I've researched past Forums for advice and found none specific to my problem. And I've also looked up this task in the 'Model T Ford Service'(green book) and 'Model T Ford Service Bulletin Essentials'. Both books depict this as a simple task. OK. Everything is loose or removed and the tank is floppin' around. But there's still about 1 1/4" of the pipe sticking through the dash in which the sediment bulb fastens when the rear end of the tank hits the lower dash flange. Never heard of anyone removing the dash to take out the tank. I have removed the ignition switch. Are the dash nuts loose or do I not need a wrench? Any tips from you Oracles out there for dash operations? This task was much simpler on my '26 tudor. But I need to remove this roadster tank to get rid of the crud and scale causing engine stoppage. Many thanks !
Those open car tanks are a hassle. I recall loosening the steering column dash bracket, then the corner of the windshield stanchions, of course both straps over the tank removed too.
By rotating the tank up into the cowl was able to get the outlet fitting clear of the firewall.
Then pulled hard on the dash panel and 'sprung' it slightly outboard, and the tank fell out.
Install was easy, as the dash panel was yet to be installed
I just replaced mine. Took steering colum out, dash out and it was very easy. About 1 hour to remove.
A little tight to get center dash bolts in but doable.
I had the same problem when I removed the tank this summer. What Dallas says. Had to remove the steering column ,dash. And two bolts on each side of the stanchions. Even the kick panels had to come out to remove the dash. Did not do anything to the pedals. My roadster has no holes in the cowl for tank lacing. Ordered the cardboard witch is correct for my car. Was a bear to install the tank with the card board in place. The filler tray on top of the tank barely cleared the cowl.
vent.. Good luck.
As for the nuts and screws that holds the dash in place . The nuts are square and you need to get a wrench in between the tank and dash. Mine was rusted solid in to places. finally got them loose. When I put the dash back on I replaced the nuts and screws with stainless, with the same slotted head. The nuts I used was lock nuts.
Guess its not correct, but easier to install and can`t be seen.
Thanks to all !! That's the exact advice I felt I needed. The dash, the square nuts, the dash steering column bracket and loosen stanchions. Dang but that'll be s pain in the butt. But had to stop 7 times in 14 miles yesterday to allow gas to trickle into the carb bowl. Sure wish Ford would've introduced the Model A in 1925 like his advisers suggested. Thanks again !!
I had to fix mine. My wife didn't like my soxs smelling like gas .
Leaking at bottom .
Ditto on steering column, dash, kick panels and windshield stantion bolts. Mine was still stuck so pulled, turned, pushed and talked to it with improper language. Suddenly it fell out and I still don't know why.
Dallas and Jim, that's to funny. We can all laugh after the job is done.