I am a new poster on this forum looking for advice on stype 280 camshaft fitted to 1911 block.
The problem I have is that when the inlet lobes of the camshaft contact the push rods there is very little clearance.
Two of the lobes have 16 thou clearance and the other two 30 thou.
should I be grinding on the block to give more clearance?.
I am concerned that the push rods will strike the block.
Thank you in anticipation alex
The specifications that came with my new Stipe cam is for .010" valve "lash" (the clearance when the lifter is at its lowest level between it and the valve stem) Do you have adjustable lifters?
The lifters hitting the block is not unusual on a high lift cam, yes grind the block.
Les thanks for reply ,the problem is not with the valve lash but the clearance between the valve lobes and the underside of the push rods.
When the inlet lobes are at there highest point the underside of the push rods are almost striking the block.
FRANK thanks for reply ,how much clearance would you advise.
If it clears you are good. No need to grind the block it still has .016 clearance. And I would rework the lifter first if needed. Scott
Make the 2 .016" to .030" and all should be good.
I've had to grind the casting in an engine only once, and that was for a Laurel Roof Cam and Lifters.
You set the Stipe cams to 0.010. I use adjustable lifters and a dial indicator for this. If you have 0.016 gaps to start with you have nothing to worry about.
Don't do any grinding on a block to clearance lifters, as one has said, as that is one step dummer then a hammer and chisel.
The tops of the lifter foot is crowned up. Use an 82 degree taper bit and bevel the hole for the clearance. We use a mill, but you can use a big drill if held straight.
Take Herm's advise. Won't take much but you do want more clearance than .016". I do the same as Herm suggests.
Don't even consider using a big drill on an early block, unless you have a mill/drill, the guides are a raised boss on early blocks, if the drill bit grabs doing it by hand held, you run the risk of snapping the cast.
You made that one up again, didn't you Frankie.
Frankie, an 82 degree taper won't grab any thing. Yes, if you use a big drill bit like you, I am sure it would grab. Guess what Frankie, we use the right tooling.
Now, Frank, if you used a drill, you should not sit on the drill for pressure, and have a friend pull the switch, yes that is to much pressure.
A drill bit can suck down, but not a taper, and we are not using a drill bit, like you, and I can imagine what kind of finish you are getting.!
Yes, an retired electrician like Alex has a 82 degree taper in his box of tricks Hermie Babie, so we are back to the simple taper grinding stone from the hardware store and you said it, Herm you are the right Tool!!
so we are back to the simple taper grinding stone from the hardware store and you said it. "END QUOTE"
Your Babbling again Frankie!!!!
Some more Babble for you Herm!
You see, many T enthusiasts like to for one reason or another, to keep their T on the road by doing what they can them selves. They ask on the forum for ideas do do so, old boy's have been do so for a 100 years with no more that a basic tool box and maybe a few out dated hand operated K R Wilson tooling. Then along comes a machinist and shoots down every thing that is helpful for a simple ask and repair, implying that the only way is the way he does it and every one else don't know what they are talking about.
Well news alert Herm, It's been done with out your help well before your conception.
Oh Frankie, I so do love it when your forceful!
Many thanks to all who responded to my post,konkhe you have identified exactly what the problem was with the crown of the push rod,unfortunately I do not have the tooling you sugest.Using a small grinding stone I have carefuly removed enough to give about 35 thou clearance,will this be enough?
Frank I also thank you for your advice,i totaly agree with your description about the model t enthusiast and the forums simple ask and repair solution.
During this engine rebuild I have been referring to mike benders awesome videos about engine rebuilding,using his methods I have managed to get tailshaft runout from 18 to 4 thou.Thanks mike,have you ever thought about doing a video on how to get the best performance from the model t cooker.i am having problems cooking freshly caught haggis.alex