Painting Engine

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: Painting Engine
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Everett on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 05:54 pm:

I'm using this gasket set I ordered from Lang's.

Do I need to wire brush or stone grind the manifold ports before installing the manifolds?

I'm also looking for advice on painting the engine. It will go into a brass era speedster. Since color accuracy isn't critical, I'm thinking gloss black.

Anyone with any thoughts, as well as suggestions for pre-painting prep, please let me know. I do have a spray gun and an enclosed area if this is best, but I'm also ok with using a rattle can; I just need to know what paint works and lasts a while.

t


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 06:53 pm:

Bill, before you paint it you might want to take off the water inlet on the side of the block and turn it around. It's installed upside down. I just brush on Rustoleum gloss black. Works fine for me.

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Michael Saggese on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 06:59 pm:

I've sprayed my engine with high heat engine paint, gloss black, from Rustoleum. I haven't had any issues with peeling or cracking.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Eyre on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 08:08 pm:

My personal preference is enamel like Dupont Centari 99a with a hardner I like it over PPG Dp 40 epoxy primer. Problem with rattle can it last just so long and often isn't solvent retardant. Others will disagree and that's is ok. Out of a gun is best for durability. I often read your posts with interest and wonder if you still have your 14 touring.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 08:32 pm:

Two paints for comparison.


I used a glossy paint on my 1915 engine and disliked it intensely. I tried a satin finish on the head and liked it. I went with that for the whole engine. Rustoleum black satin. Hi-temp paint isn't needed for the block. The exhaust manifold needs hi-temp paint, but the block doesn't get that hot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 09:49 pm:

Noting I dislike more is seeing a really nice restored car with a rusty engine...I do mine in first what ever color the customer wants or satin black or Model A engine green. Rattle cans all the way. :-) Usually the pedals, fan, starter, generator and hogs head in satin black.

One thing to remember, don't put the paint on too thick. Too thick of paint cuts down on the thermal transfer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange - Hillsboro, MO on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 10:08 pm:

I left the exhaust manifold on my '24 natural, but for those that like to maintain the fresh cast iron look on their exhaust manifolds, Eastwood sells an excellent manifold paint that lasts a long time and can be brushed on (it can also be touched up with a brush years later and the touch up will blend in perfectly once the paint is heat cured).

I have used the brush-on version on the exhaust manifolds of my 1971 Plymouth GTX and have been very satisfied with the results (I have almost 60,000 miles on the car since I finished it in 2001).

http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Aaron Griffey, Hayward Ca. on Tuesday, October 11, 2016 - 10:17 pm:

I always use parts store engine paint in the rattle can on engines. It is made for the bare metal of an engine.
after getting the rust & crud off I wipe everything down with acetone or mineral spirits.
I paint all chassis parts with Rustoleum satin black. I use a 4" roller where I can, spray with a rattle can where I can't.
Be sure it says "oil Base" on the front of all Rustoleum quart cans. They have both water and oil base in cans. Rattle cans are oil base, it does not say that on them.
If it says to clean up with water... you've got water based paint. Stay away from water based paint for chassis and engines.
A T engine looks best in satin black.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter B. Ratledge on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 07:33 am:

Bill, I use VHT EPOXY PAINT on my engine in my 1911.It is satin black,self priming,rust and solvent resistant. It is also easy to touch up. The heat range is 250-F. WWW.vhtpaint.com
I do not use it on the Manifold. I use a manifold paint from Eastwood. It is a satin paint(1,200-f)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Govoni on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 07:56 am:

POR-15 makes an engine paint that I used on my 64 Imperial. It looks just as good as when I did it in 1992.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Landry, Hudson, NH on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 09:26 am:

POR-15 Engine Enamel on the engine, POR-15 Factory Manifold Gray on the manifolds. Brushed on. No need to spray - the stuff self-levels amazingly well. Manifolds were sand blasted clean prior to paint. Engine was cleaned and prepped with the POR-15 products. This color is "Ford Green" but it comes in 20+ colors.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jesse L. Ashcraft on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 01:01 pm:

>>>I'm also looking for advice on painting the engine.<<<

Far be it from me to give anyone advice but I'm painting mine an industrial dove grey with a candy apple red head and valve covers.

I was talking to BJ a couple weeks ago and he said they just shipped a rebuilt motor in bright yellow and green John Deere colors. I ask him if he had taken a picture for evidence but he hadn't. John Deere colors! I would love to see that.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 02:36 pm:

Semi-gloss or satin black comes closest to the factory-applied stuff (before 1925, anyway).

I used Cast Blast on my exhaust manifold and it looked great for years until some idiot whose initials are R.V. let some plastic coated wire touch it while it was hot. Once I get it sandblasted and re-coated it will look great again and will stay that way so long as Mr. Idiot stays away from it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By tommy coffey on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 03:16 pm:

When putting an engine together, do you ever paint the parts then assemble so the edges of the gaskets show?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Chris Landry, Hudson, NH on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 09:20 pm:

That's how I did mine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Spencer Vibert - Granby ,CT on Wednesday, October 12, 2016 - 09:40 pm:

por15 is the way to go on any motor


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 09:35 am:

After a few years does a painted engine matter?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Sherman Tacoma WA on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 10:24 am:

Just paint the block? Or paint pan and hogshead the same color. I am not going to paint my block black.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith, Lomita, California on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 11:57 am:

Two rattle cans of Rustoleum Satin Black will do it. I think gloss is to shiny. Judging from the above photo, I think the manifold side of the block should have bee surfaced a few thousandths.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 01:57 pm:

Paint it what ever color makes YOU happy. 99% of the people will not know the difference and other T owners that bitch can go to you know where! :-) LOL

(Message edited by redmodelt on October 13, 2016)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 02:56 pm:

I used Rust Oleum barbecue paint on my 16's engine, came out really nice. Brush applied of course as sloppily as I could.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert D. Hyden on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 03:36 pm:

The color of the Model T engine has always been of interest to me. Some excellent studies indicate black, while others indicate they were never painted in the first place leaving just the cast iron grey. Many used to think that engines in the 1920's were painted a grey which could have legitimately been confused with the unpainted cast iron engine. Well I painted the engine n my 13 cast iron grey. It may be wrong, but it really looks clean and is a good contrast to the black fan , black engine pan, and black valve covers. I guess it is whatever floats your boat.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Everett on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 04:44 pm:

Robert, I sent you a PM.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Thursday, October 13, 2016 - 06:05 pm:

Back before Trent debunked, "engines we never painted," I used Cast Blast.



That was a long time ago and it has held up well.

If you want you could do some contrasting colors on the intake manifold and valve covers.

: ^ )


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