Putting new fenders on my '15 touring that has been in the family since new. Noticed antifreeze drip coming from the block between #3 and #4 just to the right of the serial #. So a cracked block, is the engine completely done? Been driving it all summer and never noticed anything, any options available??
Without pictures and cleaning up the area to see exactly what is going on it is hard to say but it sounds like a crack in the outside of the water jacket which should be a relatively easy fix. It may be as easy as cleaning up the area, opening up the crack a bit and using a good epoxy to make the repair.
How about a few pictures? Could be a variety of things, some simple fixes.
I'll try and get some today after work...If it's still light out.
Lots of T blocks have that common crack. Back in the day rusty water and black pepper took care of it. Val has a good fix for it. Drive and enjoy.
That is probably the most common crack area. Lots of them have been successfully repaired
Stupid question, how do you open the crack?
The radiator guys around here swear by a product called Mend-Tite. It is somewhat hard to find but is just a liquid stop leak. I used it on a Subaru and a John Deere mower, both with leaky head gaskets, and it worked very well. It can't hurt to try that until such time as you research a more permanent repair.
Does it drip enough to make a puddle on the floor? If not, ignore it. My '21 Roadster has had some seepage there as long as I've owned it. Never makes a puddle so it's not a problem. Frankly, it would have to be a pretty good size puddle for me to even begin caring about it.
You could try just using water for coolant for a while and see if the crack rusts up and seals itself.
NO! Do not try to eat that.
Even with butter and grape jelly on it?
Nope, never a puddle. Just an annoying/alarming green bubble making a bee line to the bottom of the engine
alumaseal works well.
If it was mine, I would sand around the crack (about a inch all around), then mix up some Devcon Plastic Steel and apply. Doesn't need to be thick, maybe 1/8".
But drain and flush with water first. Maybe use a hair dryer to warm it and make sure it is clean and dry. A final wipe with laquer thinner (acetone) a few minutes before. Your wife probably has some (nail polish remover, read the label, some isn't)!!!
Follow the instructions on the Devcon. Probably give it overnight to fully cure
CLEANLINESS is very important!!!
John, to open and vee out the crack for better penetration of the epoxy (- or solder, if you like to try that route), you can use an angle grinder.
John - A little bubble running down the outside sounds like a small leak. You might fix it with an additional coat of engine paint but the plastic steel is most likely the best and easiest fix.
The real fix is of course to "stitch it" using special plugs made out of cast iron. You can buy a kit and search Utube for some good howto videos. The epoxy works well and doesn't preclude this other fix. If you grind a big V then you have changed your options
Other option is to "stitch weld"(you weld about a 1/2", let cool, grind back 1/4", weld another 1/2", and so on)
I have been driving with a leak like that for years,
Don't over think it. Just go for a ride and have fun.
Dark by the time I got home last night. I'll try to get a picture tonight.
Thanks for the input, I feel much better about the situation
I have a 22 block cracked in the water jacket below the head on the water inlet side. It was professionally soldered back in the late sixties and held through the eighties when last driven. I am restoring the 27 coupe it was in and replacing it with a correct 26-27 block. When I pulled the 22 block to replace it, I noticed the crack had opened again, allowing for a lot of corrosion to take place. A lot of people swear by their ability to perform miracle repairs at an amateur level, but I don't trust that kind of work, seeing what happened when a professional did it. I sent a Ricardo and a Simmons head to Midwest Cylinder Head Repair in Nevada, Iowa to be fusion welded. Its not the cheapest way, but its the only way that I'll do it.
I have had very good results doing as Les describes using devcon epoxy fillers ...the flushing and cleaning is important ... i will block off the water inlet and use a shop vac. to apply suction on the upper outlet ...i use a thin steel fill epoxy and allow a full cure before refilling the cooling system ... remember Les comes from the FREEZE CRACK CAPITOL of the WORLD ...they would see this kind of thing often before modern anti-freeze solutions ...usually an easy home shop repair ...always an optimist...Gene French
I think it's toast. Junk that dog and get a new one !
Managed to get a picture last night
JB Weld is a two part epoxy that works quite well in repairing cracked or rusted water jackets. Here's what I did to repair one several years ago, and it is still holding just fine: