A am painting a car tomorrow. I have never painted a basecoat/clearcoat, only single stage before. The base coat requires a 8:1/2:4 mix. I am sure I am thinking way to hard, but I can not figure this mix out on the measure cup. I can't figure out the "1/2" activator.
Well you could for example mix 8 ounces of paint with 4 ounces of activator and 1/2 ounce of hardener.
Or you could mix 1/2 pound of paint with 1/4 pound of activator and 1/8 pound of hardener.
What system are you using? I've never heard of BC requiring a hardener. Must not be urethane.
Be sure to follow the directions exactly when it comes to overcoat times. If the base uses a hardener, the top coat (clear) will probably have to be sprayed within a certain time. This is SOP with all BC/CC systems but hardened BC paints usually don't provide very good mechanical adhesion for the top coat. These usually need a chemical adhesion and the reason for the short over coat time.
Don't start the spraying session unless you have the time to complete the entire process within the time specified. This is base coat, flash then top coat.
Royce, yes I could get kitchen measuring cups and do it that way. make for sense to me. Thank you.
Nason Ful-Base (IF Quility)
I think it's black ... :-)
Tyrone. All base coat color i have ever been involved with only uses color and reducer for the base. Then the clear needs hardener and reducer . some clears don't require reducer. go on line to the paint manufacturer of the paint you are using and check out there mixing data. Ken
Sounds like you got it Tyrone, sorry but i type slow. Ken
Gimme good ol' fashioned Acrylic Enamel any day! Trouble is you can't get it any more. I have Imron on Pete's black sheet metal areas. It's great too.
I just eye ball it. Measuring is too much work!
Lay out marks on a stir stick- that has always worked well for me. Just make sure your container has straight sides and it will be pretty accurate.
These ratios are by volume- you can't weigh them as the density of each may (is not) not be the same.
By the way- I'm with Tim re the acrylic enamel. But there are still single stage urethanes urethanes that are pretty easy to work with.
You should be able to purchase mixing cups which have the different mixing ratios on it, such as: 4:1:1, 1:1, 3:1..5 and such. They also have ounces marked, so doing the 8:.5:4 should not be a problem.
Depending on what brand paints you're using, it's a good idea to get a copy of the spec sheet which clarifies the mixing ratios, along with tack time between coats.
Ok, color coats on, waiting for first coat of clear to set up. The original paint was a single stage urethane.
Over the original is primer. A place the primer had a couple tiny scratches, this new paint reacted to the tiny exposed urethane and bubbled. Right on the side of the hood. Other wise all is going well.
About this 1/2 activator. The man who mixed my paint said that at these outside temps (70's) I actually did not need it. That the paint would setup its self. The activator would simply speed up the process.
Outside the couple booboos, its looking good. However I still like working with single stage better. Thank you all for the help.
I'm with you on the single stage for Model Ts. I use Nason Ful-thane single-stage for all my antique stuff. It's cheap and reliable, just like my old Fords.
Now you get to wet sand the clear coat with 1200-1500 grit paper to get that deep shine look! back and forth - back and forth...