This past winter I decided to improve my 26 engine's performance. I took a real nice steel timing gear and re-drilled it for the 7.5 deg advance. I removed a perfectly good and quiet fiber gear. I did not change out the original crank gear. The engine noise now coming from the timing gears is unacceptable for my driving. What is the consensus as to the best and quietest cam gear. I see the vendors offer aluminum, nylon and bronze. I can re-drill any of them for the 7.5 deg advance. Would I be wrong in considering using the original fiber gear. It sure was quiet.
How does the engine perform with the 7.5 degree advance? I am considering this with the Stipe 280 in my Fordor.
One of the best improvements I made. It seems to make me adjust the spark more often when it comes to hills but you can actually feel the power increase when adjusted. Bob
To be honest Bob, you'll have to change all three (gen gear to) to get it quiet. Try running the car with a blanking plate in place of the generator to see if the noise goes away. If so, your may need to add gaskets to get the gen gear lash correct.
I have a new alternator on the car. Would your idea about the blanking plate still apply?
Any metal gear set will make a noise if they don't mesh right or if the play between them is too large.
If you change again it's best to change the crank shaft gear too, and that's a big job - you have to pull the engine and remove the pan.
I have a 7.5 degree advanced aluminum timing gear and I'm very satisfied - can't hear it @ my T pulls great up hills. Bronze may be even better, but costs more. Old Henry steel would be my third choice, but you've already tried that one. Wouldn't dare the soft material options, but if you aren't going to run a generator you may try the fiber again, just keep your full AAA membership and a cell phone when out driving
Saw you have an alternator. Same as a generator - an extra load on the timing gear with unsure mesh and play, hard to check..
Try run without it - it's easy to make a blanking plate if you haven't got one.
Bob, I have done some playing on this subject and have tried different gears from different vendors and the best I have found are DMC gears they are a little more money but they are both cut on the same machine and in my experiance they are the best out there. Dan will drill the gears for your advance if you ask him a head of time.
I can sell you another fiber gear real cheap. It will make your engine absolutely quiet.
So I will be the "Outlier" here. If your engine was built with a old fiber cam gear and by the lack of noise, it was obviously well meshed, then why not just re-drill it and bolt it back in place. Now this presupposes that you didn't wreck it removing it
I have got fiber cam gears in both my driver T's. One was built in '78 and one in 2000
Would this 7.5* gear set up be good in a distributor motor?
The fiber gears are well known for what Steve shows in his picture. When that happens, you will stop suddenly wherever you are! Use a steel, aluminum or bronze gear. What the others have said is true. Replace all 3 gears if you want to be quiet.
Pat, it's the cam shaft that determines whether 7.5 degrees advance will be to your advantage or the opposite
The idea with advancing the cam is to give the engine more power at mid rpm (800-1000) in hill climbing while the trade off is a little less top end at 1600 rpm and more. Often it helps with 7.5 degrees advance on worn stock cams and some reginds. Glen Chaffin says his more recent cams has that feature built in from start, so no advance needed on them.
Pat Kelly, I run a distributor in my car. Roger is correct with his statement above.
Anybody have an opinion on the new nylon gear verses the fiber gear? I don't want to remove my motor until next winter 2017 and looking for an easy fix until then when I will replace all gears.
The alternator may be "in" too far. Run it without and if the noise goes away it can then be made quiet with gaskets to shim it out.
If the only choice is between fiber and nylon, then nylon. Given my experience I'm not a big fan of that either.
Any of the timing gears - steel, aluminum or bronze - are quiet when in good shape and meshing properly. If you have a howling noise then you certainly need to figure out which one is causing the problem.
Try shimming the alternator first since that is the least trouble to deal with.
Winter 2017 is only a few months away. Why not continue driving with the noise until you pull the engine then replace all gears. If you notice more power with the existing gear drilled for advance, then purchase your new gear with the advance built in. Otherwise use a standard gear.
Added to the above suggestions If you use nylon gear, you still need to replace the other gears. Nylon is softer than the metal gears and I would advise against replacing with nylon unless the other gears are in perfect condition.
How is the alternator shimmed? Is it just a shimm between the face of it and the front cover that it bolts to or do I have to pull the front cover and shimm the cover out?
See page 114 of the Ford Model T service manual (chapter VIII) for the shim location and procedure.
Well, I removed the alternator and drove the car. The noise seemed even louder this way. I guess I'll just put up with it this coming summer and change all gears next winter. This winter is dedicated to installing a Ruckstell. Retirement dollars only go so far. Thanks for all the comments and suggestions. Bob