Disassembling the transmission on my 26, which has a ball bearing 4th main. I have compressed the clutch spring and removed the pin, but it appears there is a sleeve on the output shaft. I am assuming this is there to fit the bore of the ball bearing, question is , how do you remove the sleeve? This one is stuck pretty good

It may be pressed on or glued with Loctite. Chances are the output shaft was turned to fit the sleeve so might not work with babbitted type 4th main if that is your goal. Try a little heat or press it off.

You will need about 250F or so to loosen a Loctite bond.

You will need about 250F to loosen a Lpctite bond.

Dave if you have a #2 pic. the shaft was turned #1 not turned ,..if i remember, you might have others
Lorenzo

Thanks gentlemen, I have type pic #1, and I can see a trace of Loctite

I have to ask why?
Considering that they have been used in T race cars since the '20's (look in "the fast ford handbook & speed and sport ")!

If any body uses a Aluminum ball cap, check the bearing with an expanding arbor in a lath, or V blocks an see the gasket flange is zeroed with the bearing hole.

I checked 3 new ones that were out of alignment from a 1/16 to about 3/16.

Reason was that when they pressed the bearing in the soft Aluminum, it rolled scored Aluminum ahead of the bearing, cocking it out of alignment, when seated. I did not order these bearings, the customers did.

Had a motor come in about 4 years ago with an Aluminum ball cap that the Aluminum ball cap was wore bad from the O.D., and the end of the drive shaft tube, all most cut a hole through that soft stuff.

Herm.

Herm
So what you are describing is Totally Crappy Junk defective manufacturing and lousy workmanship. I couldn't agree more
1. Under NO circumstances should the bearing be pressed into the housing in this type of application. That violates ALL good engineering practice!!! A close slip fit (about .001" clearance) is the correct design for the non rotating race of this type of ball/roller bearing. The rotating race should always be locked in place (Loktite, light press fit or similar)
They knew all this 100 years ago. Nothing new!!!
2. Good concentric machining shouldn't be that tough of a concept.
I get really pissed when people screw up a good concept and design by lousy workmanship and totally fouling things up.
OK my rant is done

Les, that's a good rant and it makes good sense.

Herm, thank you too for your input.

Keith

It's hard to beat the original design and here is a great example.

David
It is tragic that the suppliers can not do as good a work as was produced in 1920. These part were used in the T's that ran at Indy and other race tracks. They were used for good reasons

Here's one my dad made using a piece of 5/8" 4130 welded in the original ball cap. The hole for the bearing was cut on the lathe after the welding was done to assure it was cut square and concentric.





The output shaft is cut about .090" to fit the ID of the sealed bearing:

Ours you have to take .050 thousandths off the tail shaft, and nothing off the drive shaft tube ball.

Herm.