How do I adjust bands?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2016: How do I adjust bands?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rod Handsfield on Friday, October 21, 2016 - 02:00 pm:

I have a 1927 Roadster that has never had its bands adjusted since restored in the 1960's. I am only able to start it in gear with one wheel jacked up. Please explain what I need to do. thanks in advance. Rod


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Govoni on Friday, October 21, 2016 - 02:12 pm:

Brother I feel your pain. I had the same issue and it turned out to be one of the triple gears hitting the flywheel. Not a good this as the whole engine has to come out now. I would take off the Trans cover and look at the gears as they go by while someone cranks the car to turn it over. If you see a gear hit the flywheel that's your issue. If nothing is hitting than your clutch pack (25 clutch disk) could be stuck. This is what it looks like when it's engine pulling time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Friday, October 21, 2016 - 02:18 pm:

Buy a copy of the owners manual.
Your clutch disk pack may be glued together with rust or dried out oil. With the motor running, jacked up on one side, wheels blocked to prevent rolling, try poping the clutch a few times.
Do you understand that on a Model T you do not press the low pedal all the way down for neutral. The car is in neutral when the low pedal is about 1/2 way down. You can ether pull the hand brake lever to straight up or hold the pedal down with your foot.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Peter Claverie, Memphis TN on Friday, October 21, 2016 - 02:30 pm:

There are two different answers embedded in your question.

If you have to jack up a rear wheel to start the car, but it will operate more or less normally after warming up, your high speed clutch is not completely releasing, or "dragging."

You need to check the adjustment of the link between the clutch pedal (the right pedal) and the clutch release shaft. Instructions can be found here on the Forum, but it involves setting the length of that link so that it entirely dis-engages the clutch when the pedal is pressed or the emergency brake handle is pulled back at least half way.

If setting that link properly doesn't ease your dragging clutch problem, you may have a case of the clutch plates that engage the brake drum, riding in grooves in the drum surface and not able to dis-engage. This is a remove-and-tear-down fix, so leave it for later.

Now to the bands.

The low-speed band is the one that needs adjustment the most, so its adjustment is made on the outside of the tranny, right side. Use a 7/8" open-end wrench to loosen the lock nut, turn the adjuster, and re-lock it. Don't turn it very far each time - if it drags it will cause heating that can eventually crack the drum.

The other two bands, reverse and brake, require opening the inspection plate on the top of the transmission. FIRST, remove the ignition key and put it in your pocket. This isn't to keep you from starting the engine (which would douse you with oil), but to keep from dropping the key into the open transmission, which we've all done to our extreme regret.

The adjustment nuts are self-explanatory. Again, a little at a time, for the same reason.

You'll need a new gasket for the inspection cover. Buy 2 or 3, so you'll not be caught short. While you have it open, most of us will suggest you install a filter screen with magnet, which requires 2 gaskets, so buy extras.

Any of the suppliers have the gaskets and filters. Take your pick. If you don't have at least one catalog, look on the home page of this site, pick a supplier, and call them. They'll fix you up.

It might be worth noting that one common problem with transmission dragging involves the oil. I'll not open the can of worms attached to the question of which oil to use, but I'll say that it needs to be reasonably fresh and clean, and pretty much any motor oil will work just fine. Remember that the very cheapest, lowest quality oil you can find today, is quantum leaps better than the best oil available when your car was built. The multi-viscosity oils will probably help a bit with your clutch problem when cold.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Duey_C on Saturday, October 22, 2016 - 11:10 pm:

Rod, tell us more. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Saturday, October 22, 2016 - 11:44 pm:

For transmission band adjustment see page 134, beginning at paragraph 524, in the Ford Service Manual.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Verne Shirk on Saturday, October 22, 2016 - 11:47 pm:

The most common problem is that the clutch plates are not releasing until oil has circulated through them. You could have other problems as Peter describes but the most common problem goes away once it is warmed up.

Since you live in Wichita you could contact me via a PM. I'd be glad to come over and have a look. Our local T club meeting is this coming Thursday. There will be lots of help available there too.

Verne Shirk
Wichita, KS


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