This is a little off topic but you are the best I know to walk me through my problem.
I need to change the contact points of the 1948 V12 Lincoln.
I never did this before on this car and I am looking for someone who can help me with my problem.
In the attachment a few photos of the car and the distributor and the information I already have about the ignition.
Should the distributor been taken out of the car to do this an easy way?? How to set the engine on TDC?
Our local expert on these distributors is bubbasignition.com in Indiana.
This distributor comes off the engine easily and it is keyed to the camshaft so it only goes back on one way. I found it very easy to remove and work on it on the workbench. My car is a 1941-V8 and the distributor is identical except for the rotor and side plates. I did not have to find TDC. If I did need to find it, I would use an indicator through the #1 spark plug hole and then used compressed air to make sure the valves are closed to prove I'm on the compression stroke.
I looked at your photo and notice you're missing the -12113- wire boots. These really help with water proofing and I recommend you replace them if you have the distributor out. In a pinch, you could fabricate them from a bicycle inner tube.
Yes you remove the distributor. Access to the points and adjustment is near impossible without removal and that was the design intent all along. The slot in the end of the camshaft is offset as is the corresponding tang in the distributor which engages that slot. Be careful when installing the distributor. If the tang engages the slot in the cam properly the distributor body will seat against the timing gear cover solidly and squarely. I know of at least one case where on installation, without the tang properly engaged in the slot, someone unfamiliar with this thought they needed to draw the distributor body down with the bolts that hold it in. Damage to the distributor was the result.
Also, the intent of that design is for the timing and dwell to be set on a distributor machine, which all Ford and Lincoln dealers had back in the day.
Thank you Tom,
Are you talking about the part 12113 on the part layout??
Yes, They are tapered rubber sleeves that fit inside the wire tubes and over the plastic caps on the ends of the distributor. The -12115- seals are often missing too. They are flat rubber washers that make it easier to put the wires and caps back onto the distributor body.
Andre, yes, that is what Tom is referring to. The 12113 works like an inverted funnel to keep the rain out.
Thanks for the help. I have know these distributor machines in the time I was at school (45 years ago) but I don't have one right now. Is there a way to set the points about right without this tool??
I will work on it tomorrow morning and will post some photos of the job.
Yes, you can get close without a distributor machine. Think of point gap as a starting point. Setting dwell is just fine tuning of the point gap to ensure complete saturation of the coil. The distributor machine saves you from having to remove the distributor multiple times to get the dwell right. This link is good for giving you an understanding of the variables you are dealing with regarding the various adjustments.
Can you power the unit electrically and perhaps drive it mechanically? Maybe with a drill? Dwell (as I recall) was set at cranking speed so fairly slow. Any one suggest why that wouldn't work? I imagine that's about what a distributor machine would do any way.
I will try it. I also found an old Dwell meter in a near garage, they give it for free telling they had no use for it in a long time.
I will set the points at 0.014" (0.35mm) and check it with the dwell meter.
In my tool box I still have a dwell meter and a timing light--haven't used them in decades. One of my cousin's gave them to me as a wedding present--he said, you'll get lots of kitchen stuff, but here's some garage stuff!
Used to use them all the time!
I just came back home from the car and could make it run properly without touching the contact points.
Before there was a problem with the car, once in a awhile it was loosing power and a few days ago it didn't start. The owner told me he had new contact point and want me to install the points in the car.
The first thing I did, when I was near the car, was testing the power to the coils with a 6V 18W test light, one coil had power the other didn't. Than I disconnect the dead wire and with a small jump wire I connected the hot wire also with the dead coil. The car fired right up and run very well but one of the wires was still dead. After a few test I found the reason at the ignition resistance under the dash board. There were three loose connections and at the dead wire the nut was missing. Fixed the connections and the car is running again as smooth as it did before.
In the attachment a few photos of the engine bay and the way I changed the fuel line to the carburetor for vapor lock. The up side down filter works as a pressure regulator.
Thanks for all the help.
Excellent work Andre!!
You were wise to ignore the owner and start with good basic diagnosis. Too many of today's "mechanics" are just parts changers who give the impression that they will just keep replacing different parts until the problem goes away. I realize that sometimes diagnosis does involve swapping known good parts so I'm not making a reference to anyone on this forum.
Now as for that Lincoln, it just has about 3 times as many cylinders as necessary, but other than that I hope the owner gets to enjoy it.
With the high fuel taxes over there he needs all 12 contributing equally.
Nice diagnostics as Gary mentioned. Besides I'd do what ever is necessary not to mess with that dist too!