When rebuilding my Model T engine, I was told if I used a Aluminum head, I would have to apply a head saver. I did not go with the aluminum head but just added a water pump made out of Aluminum. Do I have to add the sacrificial anodes. ?
Berg's alum pumps that have been found at swaps by me typically have corrosion around the gasket port. Sometimes inside the impeller housing too. Likely, IMO, the soft porous alum of low quality in these castings are prone to reaction of pH of the water or coolant over time.
Best cooling results for the T are found with a clean motor, new or cleaned good radiator, and no pump.
George, It couldn't hurt to run one. When my Dad and I restored his Father's 27 coupe in the late sixties, we ran a Berg's sluminum pump which looks like yours pictured. We always ran antifreeze that was supposed to have anti corrosion properties. When I pulled the engine in it to replace it with a rebuilt engine, I noticed 1. the water pump was seized and was full of white crystalline corrosion 2. that enough corrosion had been created over the years before the pump seized that the water passages of the block were full of the white corrosion, too.
Cast iron and cast aluminum do not react to each other in any significant way . Absolutely no reason to think this is a problem. The sacrificial anode is needed in your hot water heater. Never needed in an engine. Be sure to use an appropriate mix of ethylene glycol and water in your cooling system to prevent corrosion.
Dan, I have run a Berg's pump for years. I will say that I found it necessary to replace the impeller shaft 6 or 7 years ago as corrosion had pitted the shaft in the area where the packing goes to the point where I could not get a good seal to stop the leaks. Replacing the shaft is simple as any good hardware store will have rods that work nicely. Speaking of sealing material I use faucet stem packing. You can find it at most ACE Hardware stores. Pull out all of the old packing and wind in the new packing going in the direction the shaft will be turning. Use a small screwdriver or such to pack it in. When you get that done screw in the packing nut to the point that there are no water leaks. At this point don't over tighten. Carefully watch for leaks as you'll find that it will start to "dribble". When you see that usually a 1/2 turn on the packing nut will stop the leak. You may need to repeat this several times till you get a good seal but always be mine full that dribbles will occur so a water pump pliers in the tool box is almost mandatory. Also, there are good original cast iron pumps on the forum,Chickasha, ebay, everywhere that with some restoration work nicely. For what it's worth.... Jerry.
My 26 TRP that I bought a month ago came with a water pump. I just changed the head to a aluminum Z and installed an anode. I have no idea how to install the water pump or if I need it. I did my first long drive today (30 min) and everything seems okay. Any instructions or advice?
Don't install it. Your car should do
Just fine without it.
Thanks, I guess ebay is my next step.
How to use a water pump for a Model T:
I put it in classifieds for free plus shipping. ,let me know if interested to run over.
I live in Texas so maybe it would be useful for those 100 degree days? It is a cool looking part and might be a good thing.
I am new to the T's so I really do not know what I need except more money for parts.
If the cooling system is clean and the radiator is in good condition, no pump is needed. The first 2500 Model T's had water pumps. The next fifteen million didn't, for a reason.
I use to change the green antifreeze yearly, my little '95 Jeep Wrangler had 175,000 miles on it and I put a water pump on it. The inside of the engine was brite cast grey color, the old pump and impeller looked brand new. A good mix of antifreeze and regular replacement WILL keep the cooling system spotless. Then I got old and have cars now with the 5 year Dexcool. Who knows what they look like inside now....
Pump found a home
I happen to like water pumps and am using a Texax T pump with an aluminum body. When I last examined the water pump, white corrosion had started in several places that I could see inside the water pump. The Texas T pump uses a Stainless Steel shaft and impeller. You should use a sacrificial anode to reduce the possibility of corrosion due to the different metals involved.
In addition, with one engine I was working on that had a Reeder aluminum head.....the inlet in the head was almost totally blocked of by a thin sheet of opaque corrosion...like glass. It chipped away easily and the surrounding area inside the head had corrosion. The cooling system had antifreeze when I drained it before removing the radiator. The coolant was green in color and did not look contaminated when I drained it. The owner told me he was using 50/50 antifreeze.
I wonder if the GM (Pink) coolant would be a better choice when using aluminum combined with cast iron in engines??? Even when using water wetter, distilled water and green coolant has not eliminated the corrosion problem for me. My radiator stays clean using antifreeze.
Just my sharing what I have experienced.
How many horsepower does it take to turn a typical T water pump? All other arguments aside, it seems to me that when you only have about 20hp on tap to begin with you don't want to start losing that power to accessories.
I took them off of both of mine and the stay plenty cool. I only took them off because everyone on the forum says they are a waste of time and maintenance. My 27 has a new radiator but the 26 has a ooooold radiator in it and it did finally as well on short 10-20 me trips. I try to keep them Luke they came, if possible. Tim