Cast iron Warford WITH the flex joint between it and rear of T transmission. Not the aluminum new or old that did/does not use the joint.
While yes you can get the work done or some can do it them self if you have a drive shaft with at least a good pinion end to start with, does anyone make just the driveshaft?
Has anyone thought about making them for sale? I am asking about the "driveshaft" not the tube or radius rods. I would think there would be a market for them at or just under what the new "GOOD" T ones are sold for.
What about cutting a section out and welding the two sections back together?(once again the drive shaft not the tube or radius rods)
What is the correct length of the above driveshaft? More importantly, what is the correct length from the end of the taper to center of the U-joint pin hole?
PM sent. I had this exact same set up in a speedster donor project car that I pulled and replaced with convention drivetrain. I have the shortened tube and shaft and can take measurements or photos or whatever you need.
Cast iron Warford shaft is 15.750" shorter than stock. Don't cut and weld a shaft. Best way is to cut the front off and machine new surfaces on it. Any machine shop can do it. We have done dozens.
Birdhaven/Texas T Parts sells a shorten length driveshaft for the KC Warford, so that should be OK for your original Warford.
I got one and it was just fine, the hole for the Ujoint pin isn't there but easy to drill.
The Birdhaven driveshaft is for the shorter Warford not the cast iron one. To install the cast iron one correctly without redoing the input shaft, the drive shaft would need to be in the ball park of 3 inches shorter.
I ran into some issues with a warford install that Texas T Parts botched.
Hopefully there is some information in here that will help you guys.