So this is a picture of the hood on my 26 touring. as you can see it has about a two finger gap at the back of the hood as well as the hole does not line up (look at the tip of my finger) where the hood pin would go. It is touching on the front. I looked at the hoods on a WEB page so I think it's correct.
(Message edited by Mopar_man on November 03, 2016)
Most likely the frame is sagged. It is a common problem that reveals itself when the hood doesn't fit right!!!
Do I put a level on it? What about measuring from the frame to the floor in several spots? Can it be fixed? The frame looks ok.
Cut some 1/2 inch washers to a horse shoe,and loosen up body bolts a little.Then slip 2-3 in the front and some in the middle ,to get it back to near normal.
Robert,keep in mind the shape of the bpttom of the frame siderails.Les is correct.Frames sag where the taper of the rail meets the 'thick'part.If the car is ok otherwise,i would ignore it if it were mine.
Your profile states "1926 Touring". If this is the car in question, is it possible that the car has the earlier style LOW radiator? People don't swap parts around...or do they?
Not accusing you, Robert, but my first T had a mismatched radiator and I didn't know the difference.
To fix this properly you must take off the body and straighten the frame. However if it's not too bad you can adjust in this way: Start with the front of the cowl and the two bolts between the body and frame. By use of shims or rubber parts cut from old tires, raise or lower the cowl to where the hood fits properly on both sides. Next, you will need to work on other body bolts and shim so that the front doors fit right. Then shim to fit the back doors and the back of the body. This will take some experimenting and work, but it can be done.
The usual place where the frame sags is where the rear crankcase ears bolt to the frame. After many years of engine torque and braking torque added to the weight of the engine and transmission as well as the weight of the passengers it begins to sag in that area. Usually most sag on the left side.
take a picture of the whole car
Ask more questions, post a few more pictures and take any measurements that will be suggested to you before you start any thing like lifting/shimming up the body. You COULD possibly have a few mixed parts.
I just measured the radiator. It's 16" from the TAB to the bottom of the tank. Overall it's 21" so I think I have a tall Radiator. That being said the hood fits around the radiator in the front.
the picture could be deceiving to me but why don't I see any louvers above your hand, we should on the back of the hood, are your hoods sides on the correct sides,
This is a picture of the whole hood. I couldn't take a picture of the whole car. Too many stuffed in the garage.
So are the hood sides on the wrong sides? The lovers look as if they would scoop the air. Mike you may be on to something.
Robert, the hood sides are on backwards. The louvres are supposed to be open to the back so heat can be driven out by the fan/forward motion of the car.
That ought to help.
Allan from down under.
Looks like the hood is on backwards. Try reversing it and see how it fits.
yep whole hood is back wards
Nah. Jack the body up just for laughs.
I think it's just the sides. The top fits ok. Hope I can get it apart.
No I'm not going to jack it up. Or take a plasma cutter to it. Ha!! As always thanks for all the input.
Well I'm sure glad I was wrong on the sagged frame.
A nice long pin punch should help get the hinge pins started out
Les I'll see how they line up once I fix the hood. Thanks!
Well, I doubt that the top of the hood is backwards, but the sides sure are!
My first thought is something's backwards. With that much distance between the hole and the indent on the hood, that frame would have to be so sagged it'd be extremely obvious.
So now I've got to figure out how to get the hinge apart. Hope the rod will slip out for me.
Oh man. You did assemble the hood didn't you? As in you know it was apart? It's not just on the car backwards as in take it off turn it around & put it back on?
If penetrating oil like 50/50 ATF/Acetone doesn't help, then heat will - but heat will destroy the paint - and since the hood can fold now, the long pin punch with oil will probably work
I'll try that Roger. Thanks!
If you can start the rod so it comes out an inch or two, try chucking it into an electric drill and turning it slowly. It should come right out.
Another great idea!! Thanks Dave.
And if the electric drill doesn't have power enough to turn the rod, clamp it in the vice instead and turn the hood parts around fore/aft - it'll come out quite easy.
This thing's gonna come out I just know it!!!
While you have the rods out, go to the hardware store and get stainless rods to replace the steel ones. You won't have the rusty red stains on the hood after it rains.
I did the same thing when I restored my 26 Touring. I had the top of the hood on correctly but the sides were reversed! See picture attached.
Must be a "tan car thing"
ED one of these days my car will look that good. With the hood fixed of course.
I think the hood is correct. Hold it in place and turn the rest of the car around.
When I went to repaint my hood last year, I bought a long piece of steel rod at the hardware store to get the hinge pins ( for lack of a better term) out. As mentioned above, I bought stainless steel rods to replace the old ones. Use a little grease on them when installing them and they will go in easier.
Robert, stainless steel rods are fine. However, bronze welding rods from a welding shop may be more easily obtained. They too will eliminate the rust stain problem.
Allan from down under.
Lang's sells the stainless rodshttps://www.modeltford.com/item/4051SSC.aspx
Thanks again everyone. I like the idea of jacking up the hood and turning the car around.
I have just today found I have the same problem, but the side panels are on right(new hood" so I'll spend the rest of today trying to shim the body, just bought softer springs for hood latches, they work ok, but I'm not so sure I can shim the cowl enough!
You're really not wanting to shim the cowl, but instead the whole body. Post some photos of what you've got. Sometimes it's also caused by the radiator sitting too high.
I had the same problem when I put my 26 touring together. It turned out that the gentleman who recored my radiator got it a little to tall. I solved my problem by cutting off the end of the hood shelves where they went under the radiator, and everything fit fine. Ed
Jerry, I shimmed the whole body, my '25 coupe has brackets bolted to the fire wall and the frame, these have to come off to raise the back of the cowl, I have it much better now, and so far have notched the brackets at the frame, I will not redrill the frame or fire wall. The radiator is a new one, the original rad. shell fits just fine. The body wood has been replaced before I got the car (it is factory made) and I never had the body off, the main wood frame does not appear to be sagged so the steel frame must be ok as near as I have been able to check. I wish now I had taken the body off! The steel brackets at the cowl were aligned with the original holes firewall and frame.