Here are some shots of original Rockies on a chassis I'm working on. Very simple setup.

Don't pay attention to the wheels! They are going to be painted dark blue, and when that is done, they will have the correct valve stems too. I have more photos of the various parts on this installation, so if interested, just ask. I can always use more parts too, as I just bought another car that needs them.

Nice set of photos, Larry !

Great photos Larry, thanks!

If you have an extra one of those conical shaped springs that fit on the rear of the brake band, I could use one - one of mine is broken and I had to replace it with a common cylindrical shaped spring. I checked McMaster Carr and several other suppliers, and nobody had a conical spring of the right size.

Great photo suite!!

Larry...wow. what I wouldn't give for a set of original rockies AND the 2 piece driveshaft for my '13! Nice pics. Thanks for sharing.

I would like to have some original Rockies for mine also. Nice photos.

I knew the guy who originally made the repro Rocky Mountain Brakes. His problem was, he was not mechanical, nor did he know how to proper research. I'm talking about the mid 60's. Certainly those original parts had to have been more available back then, than now. I know he had an original set of installation instructions, but failed to do his homework, and that is why we now have the Bennett equalizer set up that is used today rather than the simple original equalizer I have posted. As you can see from my photos, the pedal clamp pulls as it should rather than pushing as they do now.

Larry, can you post a picture of the pedal clamp? Is it a cast item, or thick sheet metal wrapped around the pedal arm?

Not only is this linkage simple but it is also very elegant!

I have been working on linkage for a set of A-C brakes, and these photos have solved several details I did not like.

Two things worth noting: 1. The RM brake uses conical springs to eliminate "drag" on the vertical linkage that compresses the brake band, 2. The side force of the brake cable at the rear is compensated by using a secondary lever next to the "floppy" brake lever to reduce wear and binding.

I also prefer the use of straight rods and lever at the pedal end. All side forces are transferred to bushings not the linkage itself. Thank you " Doctor" Smith.

Oops, never mind Larry, I see that a top view of the pedal clamp is indeed shown in one of the pictures. Duh!

Larry,

Thanks for posting the pictures of the linkage.

It seems like a very simple way of making it work.

Larry, does the pedal still have the cams on it? I have a RM brake pedal that has no cams notches. The person I got it from claimed it was used with the original rocky brake setup.

Chad, The original rocky mountain brakes did not make a pedal. Check the picture that Larry posted, that is what the original rocky brakes were like and yes it is the original pedal with the cams. The pedal you have is one of the first repo pedals the Jack Sunderland made for the brakes that Bud Williams is now reproducing and selling.

Here is a photo of an original pedal clamp. Since it uses the original Ford pedal, yes it has the cam!

Great pics, thanks Larry!

There's not much to that pedal clamp, it would be fairly easy to replicate.