I have built a spoke press and have 12 new spokes from Langs. The holes in the metal felloe measure .502 +/- .002. The tenons on the spokes measure .540. This is about .040 interference fit which seems much to me. I realize there should be some press fit to keep the spokes tight but how much is enough.
Ever since you got elected President the stock market has taken a dive! I am not happy......
A dive??? Where are you getting your information...Dow up 256 pts., Nasdaq up 57 and S&P up 27 yesterday.
Sorry Don is a good friend and excellent Model T restorer. The political funnies are not appreciated.
Any thoughts on the tenon size for the spokes?
We think they should just be turned down some but has anyone out there experienced the same issue.
I know Steve Jelf and others often here on the forum have used the wheel spoke press with great success. Don just wants to be sure we are not missing anything.
Helpful comments appreciated.
I believe they manufactured different spokes for different wheel types. I think Kelsey and Hayes used different spokes and the tenons were different diameters for the different manufactures. You may want to check your wheel manufacture to make sure you got the correct spokes to start with.
You also may want to make sure you didn't get TT spokes.
Model T steel felloes were made by different companies. If I remember there are two different size tenon holes that I've found on the felloes that I've had.
The spokes used to be offered by the vendors in two tenon sizes. Not sure if they do that anymore.
The two tenon sizes offered are 1/2 inch and 5/8 inch.
FWIW, I measured the spoke holes in my Kelsey felloes enough to know that I needed the 1/2 inch tenon spokes. Per the instructions on the Lang's site, I ordered the 1/32 inch longer spokes.
They pressed in just fine without any dressing of the tenons. I was careful to keep the sealer and stain off of the tenons and mating surfaces of the spokes.
(Message edited by cudaman on November 10, 2016)
Standard nominal tenon sizes are 1/2" and 5/8" (.500" and .625"). But they're made slightly oversize to compress into the felloe. The tenon on my spare Stutzman spoke measures .522", but that includes paint. My guess is that without the paint it would be about .510" to .515". I don't know what to say about the .540".
Maybe this helps, from an earlier post on the subject of the 1/2" tenon spokes:
I talked to Dave at Langs today who had a Ford spoke drawing to consult. The tenon diameter was specified as 17/32 - 35/64 which to 3 places would be .531-.547.
From a post by John Reagan in 2015:
The tenon for the so-called 1/2" tenon is oversize until pressed together.
Just to confirm. I too have the factory drawing for the spokes and made my own before Don Lang started making them. He sent me some of his earliest ones to check out and I found them THEN to be right on the money. I do not continue to monitor them for Lang's but have no reason to suspect that they have lost the formula. The ones I made for my own car were .543 nominally and varied only a few thousandths from that for all 48 spokes. Once you press the spokes into the wheel they will be very very tight. If you then disassemble the wheel and put it back together they will no longer be quite as tight. Thus I suggest you make sure that all parts are correct and all spokes lined up perfectly so that your wheel press is used only once per wheel. The hub should NOT be loose in the hub either. It should also be very tight and difficult to turn so line up the holes before you start to press things together so that you only have to make minor correction to get the spoke seams lined up for bolt hole drilling. Hope your wheels turn out nice - mine did.
Be sure that the chamfer on the base of the spoke faces the hub flange, it is easy in the heat of the moment while placing spokes to get one upside down.
Mark that's a beautiful set of wheels. Tim