I am new to the Model T world as I just got a 1926 Runabout Monday. I am trying to work is step by step. Battery charged Check, Cranks over Check, Change the oil Check, Spark Check, and have now found the fuel tank is leaking out of the over flow tube with only a small amount of fuel. I have read on here that no one seems to make new tanks. I live in central Ohio and was wondering if anyone would know if there is a shop that could repair these? There was a Radiator repair shop in the 70's-80's in Springfield Ohio that would do this but think they have gone out of business many years ago. Any information or suggestions would be appreciated. If anyone would have a good suggestion on adding a temporary fuel tank so I can try to get it running before I spend a lot of cash to find out some serious issues I would appreciate it also.
You can try to fix that seeping from the internal pipe that is the over flow pipe.
That pipe runs thru the gas tank, and since the pipe is open at both ends all the time, it can get rusted in tiny spots from air/water ingress.
Drain the tank, then plug the lower outlet end with cork or some kind of stopper. Pour into the pipe to the top with gas tank cleaner and then the sealer (I used the Bill Hirsch small kit for motor cycle tanks.)
Let it stand for a bit, then drain out. Repeat a time or two. Drain and let dry. The gas tank sealer will then seal the inside bore of the over flow tube and should fix your issue.
I have a 1926 touring car that had the exact same issue. I had a few spare tanks around thinking surely one of those would work, but they too leaked in the same spot. I am in my late 20's and plan to keep this car for a long time, so I wanted a long lasting fix. So I shipped my tank to Moyer Fuel Tank Repair in Greensburg, PA. They seem to have done a nice job, they opened the tank up cleaned it thoroughly and then welded the tank back up. Then sealed the tank with a process they called Renu, When I talked to the owner he said he has done several 26-27 T tanks. I just got it back last week and installed it over the weekend, seems to be holding up good. The downfall is it was a little pricy, with shipping I think it was around $430. Their phone number is 1-800-328-9550, and they also have a website if you are interested.
I am going to try to pull it tomorrow and get a better look at what is going on and might try the sealer. Sounds like it would be worth a shot.
Check if you have a local radiator shop. Luckily I have one and it is a third generation Business. They clean, pressure test,solder, repair and leak test the tank. Charged me $60. Worse case you could whip it here as have done for that price. They did my tank and radiator in two days! Picked them up Friday. Gordon's radiator is the name. If you are interested call them and arrange shipping or if you want I'd be happy to take it there for you they know me and I work right down the road.
I called a little radiator shop in town and was surprised when I ask if he could fix a fuel tank on a Model T he said "Bring It In" I almost didn't know what to say except I will Bring it in. Now I have it loose and one strap is out and the strap on the right side will not come unhooked. I and move it around tried to pivot it to the left and swing it over the top and it won't clear the steering column. The tank is loose and flopping just won't come back far enough to clear. Any suggestion on what I can do?
Sometimes they about fall out and others can be a pain. I would make sure the lip that sticks up behind the fill whole isn't holding it in, I had to bend that thin edge of metal forward toward the front of the car and it all but fell out. You might give that a shot. It worked for me back in the summer. Tim
On my 26 I loosened the steering mount and flexed the dash a little and it came out. Just had to strong arm it a bit.
I will try that tomorrow. The tank drops down far enough that I can see the hook from the fill hole actually reach in and touch it from the fill hole. Seems is just won't slide back far enough.
I did loosen the column some as well.
I have tried for hours to get this thing out. What if I cut the strap? Can I weld or braze it back together? Does anyone thing that will work? I think I can get in through the filler lid and cut about 2-3 inches from the hook. I have taken the dash and steering column loose and tried everything I can think of without bending the dash plate (I have pulled it hard). If it is possible to weld or braze that I will cut it out today.
I had to remove dash on mine. I removed colum also.took about an hour . Easy to remove with dash out.
Just asking have you remove the two nuts on the engine side of the firewall that the threaded end of the straps come out? If so you should be able to pull the straps Back & down.
I could not. The hooks on othr end would not come out with dash in. Make sure they are hooked when you install dash.
Yes the strap is hanging inside the car. One on the left came off easy the one on the right just will not come unhooked. The dash is loose but still in the car. I can take the steering column out if that will let the dash be removed and the strap will be accessible.
Thats the problem i ran into.
I took all of the screws out of the dash, removed steering support bracket and screws, lowered the steering column, and it was still difficult to get the tank out. A struggle to get back in and well worth the effort to have a clean and sealed tank. It took my father in law and I several sessions of persuasive speaking to accomplish.
Be sure to disconnect the battery cable, because you will be dealing with the switch and ammeter when you remove the dash. And make a diagram of just which wire goes where. Be sure you do not accidently connect a hot wire to the magneto.
Here is a link to a resent posting on the same topic.
Several years ago this was discussed at great length too.
It seems on the early Improved cars you have to remove the instrument panel where as on later cars you only have to drop the brake pedal... or something like that.
It was thought that the later cars had a larger cowl, but if you compare measurements on cars that will and cars that don't allow the tank to just drop out the measurements are the same.
I have removed several of those tanks, but on my '26 touring I have to remove the dash panel for sure.
Success !! I removed one bolt on the windshield stanchions the bolts at the bottom of the steering column. I was able to move the dash back toward the tank and down, then pull it to the back to the inside of the car and up and removed it. The strap came out and the tank fell in the floor. Thanks for the help. I am excited to get it to the repair shop in the morning. Hope he can give me some good news soon.
Congrats! I knew you could do it.
Drive safe and often
Rebuilt the carburetor. Got the tank in adjusted the timing rod and cranked it over and she seems to run good. I hope to take a test drive today but we will see how that goes. I have only driven 1 Model T and that was about 30 years ago. Thanks again for the help.